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5.11-, Trad, TR, 50 ft,
Avg: 3.1 from 8 votes
New Mexico > Los Alamos & Wh… > White Rock > Big Enchilada, The > S Side, Big Enchilada
If you're going to climb a 5.11 at the Big Enchilada, this is a good choice.
Up a broken dihedral, pull a small roof, and layback (1st crux) up to another overhung crux passing over a bulge below the prow.
Route #22 in Chen/Wehner, as shown on
South side of the Big Enchilada. Sorry for the poor quality, this is a photo of a photo.
This climb is also listed as Beverly #24 (5.11a) and Jackson #9 (5.11a).
TR, or lead this with a standard rack up to 2", with 2 ea. of smaller cams and TCUs helpful.
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top.
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... and then she crosses over to a second tips layback. How can she do that?
Michaela reaches for the finger tip layback above the roof.
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The Dungeon, NM
This is one of the "top 10" White Rock cracks IMO, despite having no name and not lots of stars in the guidebook.
Jan 18, 2016
Here is another great climb at Big Enchilada. I always have a struggle with this one as my fingers don't fit into the layback crack above the roof forcing a work-around on face holds and sometimes the terrible arete to the left. I think this is solid 5.11 climbing. The second crux -- passing the second overhang -- can be done by finger-traversing left and then up, or by climbing the arete on the right. The latter is pretty airy and out-of-balance but is probably a little easier. When I do the left traverse I always feel like the 463 pound blue marlin being gaff-hauled over the stern of "Pilar" Ernest Hemingway's fishing boat. I've only led this once, and though it didn't feel "too bad" I think it's a tough lead. I've never found a real rest beneath the first overhang so it's tiring hanging out there while you fiddle with gear. Ditto the second overhang. Also, did I mention the blocky jugs at the base of the corner -- the ones you put gear behind -- aren't that tightly bonded to the cliff?
Nov 22, 2017