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Route 22

5.11-, Trad, TR, 50 ft,  Avg: 3.1 from 8 votes
FA: unknown
New Mexico > Los Alamos & Wh… > White Rock > Big Enchilada, The > S Side, Big Enchilada

Description

If you're going to climb a 5.11 at the Big Enchilada, this is a good choice.

Up a broken dihedral, pull a small roof, and layback (1st crux) up to another overhung crux passing over a bulge below the prow.

Location

Route #22 in Chen/Wehner, as shown on
South side of the Big Enchilada. Sorry for the poor quality, this is a photo of a photo. .

This climb is also listed as Beverly #24 (5.11a) and Jackson #9 (5.11a).

Protection

TR, or lead this with a standard rack up to 2", with 2 ea. of smaller cams and TCUs helpful.
2-bolt anchor, reachable from the top.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

... and then she crosses over to a second tips layback. How can she do that?
[Hide Photo] ... and then she crosses over to a second tips layback. How can she do that?
Michaela reaches for the finger tip layback above the roof.
[Hide Photo] Michaela reaches for the finger tip layback above the roof.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

George Perkins
The Dungeon, NM
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] This is one of the "top 10" White Rock cracks IMO, despite having no name and not lots of stars in the guidebook. Jan 18, 2016
Chuck Calef
  5.11c R
[Hide Comment] Here is another great climb at Big Enchilada. I always have a struggle with this one as my fingers don't fit into the layback crack above the roof forcing a work-around on face holds and sometimes the terrible arete to the left. I think this is solid 5.11 climbing. The second crux -- passing the second overhang -- can be done by finger-traversing left and then up, or by climbing the arete on the right. The latter is pretty airy and out-of-balance but is probably a little easier. When I do the left traverse I always feel like the 463 pound blue marlin being gaff-hauled over the stern of "Pilar" Ernest Hemingway's fishing boat. I've only led this once, and though it didn't feel "too bad" I think it's a tough lead. I've never found a real rest beneath the first overhang so it's tiring hanging out there while you fiddle with gear. Ditto the second overhang. Also, did I mention the blocky jugs at the base of the corner -- the ones you put gear behind -- aren't that tightly bonded to the cliff? Nov 22, 2017