Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Wall

Angry White Men S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Arocknophobia S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Balls Deep S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Bye Bye Bolt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Corny (Denny’s Route) S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Corny Alternate Start S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Don't Faint on my Disco (Variation) S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Don't Screw with My Disco S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Faint (drilled) S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Fracture S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Hog Nose S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Itching to Climb S 5.8- 5b 16 VI- 14 VS 4c
Jingle Bells S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Monkey Boy S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Monkey Girl S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Puss in Boots S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Rain Check S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rain Check Direct S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Shark Bait S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Sixth Element, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slab Dance S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tap Dance S 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Two Bolts - No Balls S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
UCGB S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
UCGB Slab Start S 5.10b/c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 40 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,987 total, 19/month
Shared By: vanishing spy on Mar 20, 2009
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


46 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

On the other side of the tree next to Itchin to Climb.

A long climb on good rock for birdsboro, the top is definitely harder for shorter folk.

Crux is getting to the anchors. High clip them from the right if you can reach them (5.9) or do some hard work heading left and up under the anchors to a crack that heads back towards the bolts (5.10)

Protection

4 bolts

Photos

Bob Ewing
Arlington
 
Bob Ewing   Arlington
 
Fun route. We were told it's harder if you go left before the shuts. I tried going left and couldn't find the feet so I went right. Perhaps it's a 5.10a to the right and a 5.10b to the left? Nov 6, 2013
kenr  
Trying to clip the anchor bolts from below right without making the move to grab the hold above them strikes me as requiring a rather long reach.
Making the moves to the good hold above the anchor bolts -- seemed to me about the same reach climbing from the right (with careful footwork) as from the left. Both seemed like just barely doable for me (just under 5ft7in w no more than normal arm-reach) -- I assume someone less tall uses different beta and better footwork.

Climbing to the hold above the anchor bolts by going around the Left side struck me as more sustained, smaller fingerholds, more interesting, and better fitting the position of the bolt just below, than climbing on the Right side.

At my height + reach, also seemed like a pretty thoughtful move just above the second bolt. I'm guessing that taller people find this climb overall less interesting. May 28, 2012
Lars Torkelson
Philly, PA
  5.10a/b
Lars Torkelson   Philly, PA
  5.10a/b
A long climb on good rock for birdsboro, the top is definitely harder for shorter folk. Apr 28, 2012
Tyrel Fuller
Denver, CO
 
Tyrel Fuller   Denver, CO
 
Best climb of its grade at Birdsboro Jul 7, 2011
Larry S
Easton, Pennsylvania
Larry S   Easton, Pennsylvania
On the other side of the tree next to Itchin to Climb. Crux is getting to the anchors. High clip them from the right if you can reach them (5.9) or do some hard work heading left and up under the anchors to a crack that heads back towards the bolts (5.10) Oct 20, 2010
gblauer Blauer
Wayne, PA
5.10
gblauer Blauer   Wayne, PA
5.10
I think this is much harder if you trend left befor the anchors. May 8, 2009