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Modern Warfare
5.10a,
Trad, 45 ft (14 m),
Avg: 2.8 from 18
votes
FA: Ray Olson and Alan Nelson 1983
California
> Joshua Tree NP
> Pinto Basin
> Loveland
> Beak Boulder Area
Access Issue: Climbing Regulations/Seasonal Raptor Closures
Details
The Joshua Tree National Park Superintendent's Compendium states that:
1. Vegetation is not allowed to be used as an anchor.
2. Only neutral or rock colored bolt hangers are allowed.
For a complete list of climbing rules and closures visit:
nps.gov/jotr/planyourvisit/…
Description
A nice wide outing for the neophyte O-dubber. This route requires some ability to use wide skills, but also allows you to get good hand jams deep in the back.
Location
This route is located on the backside of the beak boulder. It is difficult to find the routes, but be aware that they are in a corridor that is behind the big bird looking boulder.
Protection
I used a single rack from #1 camalot to #4.5 (old size)camalot with doubles in the old #3-#3.5. (The #1 and #2 go well in the anchor at the top).
![More Modern Warfare! Photo by Mandy Williams<br>]()
[Hide Photo] More Modern Warfare! Photo by Mandy Williams
![the section above the climber in this photo felt a bit harder than 10a. If fisticuffs is 10b this is 10d at least]()
[Hide Photo] the section above the climber in this photo felt a bit harder than 10a. If fisticuffs is 10b this is 10d at least
![Mangled Hands after two weekends of the wide. This route sealed their fate.<br>
Photo by beny.]()
[Hide Photo] Mangled Hands after two weekends of the wide. This route sealed their fate. Photo by beny.
![Modern Warfare<br>
Photo by Mandy Williams]()
[Hide Photo] Modern Warfare Photo by Mandy Williams
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Flaky Foont, WI. Redacted…
WideFetish.com widefetish.com/routes/moder… Mar 21, 2009