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Routes in Goliath's Groove Area

Archangel, The T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b R
Goliath's Groove T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Holly Bush Gully Right T 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Type: Trad, 65 ft
FA: Peter Harding, 1947
Page Views: 750 total, 7/month
Shared By: rdlennon on Mar 20, 2009
Admins: Chris Owen, Euan Cameron, Nick Russell

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Description

Strange how one of the most aesthetic routes on rock can prove to be the least aesthetic to actually climb. Goliath's Groove lives up to its name- tall, pumpy, and thrutchy, with two distinct cruxes. Begin in the flared offwidth between the famous aretes of Archangel and Ulysses. Struggle up this (or, if you are strong enough, style up it with grace and aplomb) to gain a rest. Then, enter the technical crux: an arching bridging corner with good fingerlocks and actual footholds. Strenuously gain the summit and relish the pump.

Location

Directly above the Grand Hotel boulder, nestled in amongst the fine aretes on the highest part of the buttress.

Protection

Good fingers-to-hands gear. Sling a chockstone just above the rest.

Photos

Rob Davies UK
Cheshire, UK
  5.8+
Rob Davies UK   Cheshire, UK
  5.8+
The offwidth start can be protected by big cams - otherwise first runner is 15-20' up where crack closes down. Would be graded 5.6 at Vedauwoo! Jun 27, 2011