Paiute Wall: Original Route
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Routes in The Paiute Wall
|Paiute Wall: Original Route T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b|
|Type:||Trad, 510 ft, 3 pitches|
|FA:||Joanne Urioste and Josh Thompson. March 2009|
|Page Views:||1,509 total, 14/month|
|Shared By:||J. Thompson on Mar 19, 2009|
|Admins:||Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen|
RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details
Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN RED ROCKS during or after rain. A good rule of thumb is that if the ground near your climb is at all damp (and not powdery dry sand), then do not climb. There are many alternatives (limestone, granite, basalt, and plastic) nearby. ***** HUMAN WASTE ***** Human waste is one of the major issues plaguing Red Rocks. The Las Vegas Climbers Liaison Council identified this problem years ago and has worked to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations (Black Velvet, First Pullout, Kraft Mtn/Bouldering, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor). These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out - consider bringing one to be part of your kit (just like your rope and shoes and lunch) no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly (do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas). This project was funded primarily by the American Alpine Club
DescriptionPitch #1: Begin up a right facing corner on thin finger's and face climbing. Climb over a varnished flake and layback the finger crack above. Conitnue upward through a couple of squeeze chimney's and a bit of face climbing. Belay at a good stance about 8-10ft above a small pine growing out of the rock. Save a #1 & #2 camalot for the belay. 5.9, 190ft.
Pitch #2: Climb a very short distance up then traverse left to reach a polished slab and a left facing corner. follow the corner up finding good gear and holds in a crack on the right. Belay at a sloping stance directly below the obvious steep, black cracks of the third pitch. The belay takes 1" pieces. 5.9, 130ft.
Pitch #3: Start climbing the left of the 2 cracks above, aiming for a chimney about 30ft up. Climb the chimney for 15ft. Pull out of the chimney and climb the hand and fist crack. Near the top of the pitch, and the wall, you will pull into an exit chimney. Climb to a tree at it's top and belay. You may want a couple of medium size cams for the belay. 5.10a/b, 190ft.
LocationThe Original route of the Paiute Wall is located on the northern edge of the main east face.
It is the obvious crack and corner system. You step over the exit chimney's on the Bridge mountain trail.