Type: Trad, 510 ft (155 m), 3 pitches
FA: Joanne Urioste and Josh Thompson. March 2009
Page Views: 2,228 total · 14/month
Shared By: J. Thompson on Mar 19, 2009
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Larry DeAngelo, Aaron Mc

You & This Route


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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details

Description

Pitch #1: Begin up a right facing corner on thin finger's and face climbing. Climb over a varnished flake and layback the finger crack above. Conitnue upward through a couple of squeeze chimney's and a bit of face climbing. Belay at a good stance about 8-10ft above a small pine growing out of the rock. Save a #1 & #2 camalot for the belay. 5.9, 190ft.

Pitch #2: Climb a very short distance up then traverse left to reach a polished slab and a left facing corner. follow the corner up finding good gear and holds in a crack on the right. Belay at a sloping stance directly below the obvious steep, black cracks of the third pitch. The belay takes 1" pieces. 5.9, 130ft.

Pitch #3: Start climbing the left of the 2 cracks above, aiming for a chimney about 30ft up. Climb the chimney for 15ft. Pull out of the chimney and climb the hand and fist crack. Near the top of the pitch, and the wall, you will pull into an exit chimney. Climb to a tree at it's top and belay. You may want a couple of medium size cams for the belay. 5.10a/b, 190ft.

Location

The Original route of the Paiute Wall is located on the northern edge of the main east face.
It is the obvious crack and corner system. You step over the exit chimney's on the Bridge mountain trail.

Protection

Nuts 1 set.
Cams 1 green Alien.
2 Sets Yellow Alien through #4 Camalot.

Photos