5.8,
Trad, Alpine, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade III,
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: Don Serl and Erin McGann, 1987
International
> N America
> Canada
> British Columbia
> Fraser Valley
> Old Settler
Some logging roads have gates that are locked when active logging is occurring. Check in advance with a phone call to Lakeside Pacific, the tenure-holding forest company: 604 793 9340. Keys can generally be picked up from their Chilliwack office during normal business hours, or at the logging camp by prearrangement.
Description
This route was originally mistaken for the west buttress of the south peak during bad weather. Climb the rib right of (across the gully) from Mars Western until it flattens off after a few pitches. Cross the gully leftwards and pick up the major basalt dyke trending up and left; climb this, crossing the line of Mars Western, to the crest of the West Buttress of the South Peak and follow that route to the summit of the south peak.
Location
Approach via Daiphy Lake and climb the rightmost minor rib on the southwest face of the south peak. Descend the south ridge of the south peak as for the west buttress descent.
Access Issue: Gates may be closed.
Details
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