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Routes in Main Wall

Against Nature (aka Peter's Route) S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Brave Little Toaster S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Castle Greyskull V4 6B
Catapult, The S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Couch Warrior S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Death Drives a Stick S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c
Dragon's Lair S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Evil Alchemist S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Evil Elliot (aka Battering Ram) S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c PG13
Gangland S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Loose Cannon S 5.13b 8a 29 IX+ 30 E7 6c
Meltdown S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Moat Jump S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Moat Pump S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b
Phrenology S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Rogue Warrior S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Siege Warfare S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Josh Smith (9/2008)
Page Views: 1,052 total, 10/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on Mar 18, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Start on junky and sharp rock and climb up a slight overhang to a small lip. Pull the lip (first crux), clip the third bolt, and catch a decent rest. Crank through some thin balancy moves off of slopers and crimps between bolts four and six (second crux). Easier but still interesting climbing guards the anchors.

The rock on this one is questionable, but will probably improve with traffic.

Location

Second route from the far left of the main wall. In between Phrenology and Meltdown, the other two routes left of a huge crack.

Protection

9 bolts to chains

Photos

Luke Hetrick
Los Alamos
  5.10c/d
Luke Hetrick   Los Alamos
  5.10c/d
Been meaning to get on this climb for about two years now and finally got my chance but I was a bit disappointed. I agree with Jason that the hands never feel solid (except for the large crack going to the anchors, all the hands there are solid) but I rather enjoyed the delicate balancing act. Every movement seemed to be a calculated decision which in my opinion, made the climb feel more difficult than the rating suggests. I was particularly challenged going from bolt 4 to bolt 5. I was able to get by it but I went left of the bolt line and then had to work my back to clip the 5th bolt, which was extremely sketchy. I also kept breaking off lots of small rocks. My belayer said he thought it was starting to rain at times...

Based on the climb, I would have giving it a 3 star rating. However, because of the extensive cleaning this route needs, I dropped my rating to a single star. I will likely not climb this route again until it sees a lot more traffic. Sep 12, 2016
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
 
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
 
Hey now, I thought the route was quite fun. Yes, you rarely get any holds that are positive - pretty much everything is a flat sloper, sorta like shingles on a roof, but if you keep you feet, it's some good, technical climbing. Generously bolted too (thanks Josh), so you never feel like you're going to take a big whip. I agree that it needs more cleaning though. I managed to get up it without breaking any rock off, but there was plenty of lichen to keep me company. Aug 28, 2009
Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
  5.10c
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
  5.10c
This route is challenging and out of character for The Dungeon. Don't do it if you do not like "no holds", and balance climbing. It is worth doing once but is not that much fun. I also broke off some rock. It might be better after it cleans up a bit. Aug 28, 2009