Type: Sport, 70 ft
FA: Josh Smith (9/2008)
Page Views: 1,118 total · 9/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on Mar 18, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


12 Opinions

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Description

Start on junky and sharp rock and climb up a slight overhang to a small lip. Pull the lip (first crux), clip the third bolt, and catch a decent rest. Crank through some thin balancy moves off of slopers and crimps between bolts four and six (second crux). Easier but still interesting climbing guards the anchors.

The rock on this one is questionable, but will probably improve with traffic.

Location

Second route from the far left of the main wall. In between Phrenology and Meltdown, the other two routes left of a huge crack.

Protection

9 bolts to chains

Photos

Scott Beguin
Santa Fe, NM
  5.10c
Scott Beguin   Santa Fe, NM
  5.10c
This route is challenging and out of character for The Dungeon. Don't do it if you do not like "no holds", and balance climbing. It is worth doing once but is not that much fun. I also broke off some rock. It might be better after it cleans up a bit. Aug 28, 2009
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
 
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
 
Hey now, I thought the route was quite fun. Yes, you rarely get any holds that are positive - pretty much everything is a flat sloper, sorta like shingles on a roof, but if you keep you feet, it's some good, technical climbing. Generously bolted too (thanks Josh), so you never feel like you're going to take a big whip. I agree that it needs more cleaning though. I managed to get up it without breaking any rock off, but there was plenty of lichen to keep me company. Aug 28, 2009
Luke Hetrick
Los Alamos
  5.10c/d
Luke Hetrick   Los Alamos
  5.10c/d
Been meaning to get on this climb for about two years now and finally got my chance but I was a bit disappointed. I agree with Jason that the hands never feel solid (except for the large crack going to the anchors, all the hands there are solid) but I rather enjoyed the delicate balancing act. Every movement seemed to be a calculated decision which in my opinion, made the climb feel more difficult than the rating suggests. I was particularly challenged going from bolt 4 to bolt 5. I was able to get by it but I went left of the bolt line and then had to work my back to clip the 5th bolt, which was extremely sketchy. I also kept breaking off lots of small rocks. My belayer said he thought it was starting to rain at times...

Based on the climb, I would have giving it a 3 star rating. However, because of the extensive cleaning this route needs, I dropped my rating to a single star. I will likely not climb this route again until it sees a lot more traffic. Sep 12, 2016