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Routes in 1. South End

Hully Gully WI2+
Ice Phantom T WI2+
Mellow Yellow T WI3+
Parallax WI5
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Type: Ice, 120 ft
FA: Dave Rone and Burt Lindquist. 1987.
Page Views: 1,498 total · 13/month
Shared By: Kris Gorny on Mar 18, 2009
Admins: Dave Rone

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Description

Spectacular and intimidating ice pillar. Steep and sustained climbing.

Location

First route at Orient Bay as you drive in from Nipigon on Highway 11. The pillar is clearly visible from the road and the approach is surprisingly unpainful. Park near the clearing on the right that leads to power lines (see
Parallax approach trailhead as seen from Highway 11. below). Walk under the lines towards the woods and identify the flagging tape trail near the "underground cable" sign.

Protection

Ice screws. A bolted drytooling Parsec (M7) is just to the left of Parallax. If the pillar looks like it might collapse, it could be a good idea to clip the bolts instead of placing screws, although in this case it would probably be better to postpone climbing for more solid conditions. There is a pair of rap anchors on top of the pillar but the route could continue for another pitch on what looked like WI3.

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