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Zircon Encrusted Geezers
5.7+ YDS 5a French 15 Ewbanks V+ UIAA 13 ZA MVS 4b British
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in Main Moonstone
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36 Views of Lone Mountain S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Across the Globe T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Blue Moon S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Blue-Eyed Sandbagger S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Central Crack T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Egg Shells T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Faster We Go, The Rounder We Get, The S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Feldspar Route T 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a |
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Flake Route T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Floating World S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Jambalaya T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Solstice S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Stargazer S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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Wind Walker T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R |
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World is Flat, The T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c |
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Zircon Encrusted Geezers S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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| Type: | Sport, 650 ft (197 m), 4 pitches, Grade II |
| FA: | Ed DeLong et al, 2007 |
| Page Views: | 2,184 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | bob branscomb on Mar 18, 2009 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Access Issue: Sticky situation
Details
This place is desolate and dangerous WYO desert with very few amenities nearby, and zero assistance should you find your pretty-little-self in a bind.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
The people are ornery and the land is mean. I don't recommend coming here at all. If the rednecks, miners, roughnecks vagabonds or land doesn't get ya, some dehydrated whacked-out windblown sunbeaten climber just might. . . . Sweetwater Rocks and adjacent areas require LOW-profiles and LOTS of respect and consideration. Keep all fences/gates as you found them. Do not build fires. Adhere to all posted signs. Do not drive off of existing paths (roads). Do not let your dog run around (chances are great that it'll be shot, bitten, trampled or fed upon). Do not take anything from this land. . . and do not leave anything. Good BLM quads are essential (make sure they're up to date). Granite Mtns (Sweetwater) area closures are adjustable and are done so via ranchers and BLM officiales. Great tracts of this area are privately owned; meaning that they are always closed. For example: Lankin Dome BLM as of last year was closed 04-30 thru 06-31 for public AND private lands; between 03-01 thru 04-31 it was closed on private land. So, sometimes private easements are opened, and sometimes they aren't. . . same with public lands; oh, and mining claims too! Pay particular attention to any signage and postings.
Description
The first pitch of this route is the stuff...a great pure friction smearing workout. Ed calls this "5.7 or so" but I'm inclined to say it is 5.8 or 5.9-. SAAAAANDBAGGGGGG. This ends on a great ledge. The second pitch starts up the 5.4 crack system, then steps out left onto the water streak. The bolt is weirdly placed here, we intend to fix this problem this year. Nonetheless, the rest of the climb goes up the water streak above, progressively easier as you ascend. There is a steep step near the top that is interesting.
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