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5.10+, Trad, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 1.5 from 2 votes
FA: Clay Mansfield, Craig Stockavas, Josh Farella, Chelsea Cook
Arizona > Southern Arizona > Mt Lemmon (Sant… > Mt Lemmon (Cata… > 6 - Mid-Mountain > Druid > W Face

Description

Jam your way through the initial wide crack to a good rest on a large block (if anyone has a car jack handy, this block should be removed). Follow the main short crack to several hand jams through an overhanging crack pulling over onto a sloping ledger(i thought this was the crux). Follow the arete onto moderate slab climbing with two bolts (somewhat widely spaced but if you did the beginning, you can do this). Clip the chains and lower off.

Location

This route is actually not on the druid wall, but on a formation to your right as you come down the trail and arrive at the fire pit. The best way to get to it is to walk down the regular path to the main druid face, keep walking past the large roof and walk slightly uphill and to the left where you will see a wide crack (still a bit dirty) slimming down to several perfect hand jams through an overhang.

Protection

Gear to 4 inches for the start (a 4 inch, 3 inch and a couple 1-2 inch pieces should do it) followed by two bolts. Chains at the top.

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Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

joshf
missoula, mt
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] I bolted and climbed this route clean on toprope solo, but never on lead so the FA is still up for grabs. The first section of crack is fun, but the latter part of the route is not as good as one would hope. Until more loose rock and lichen is removed with traffic, this route should probably be rated with a PG13. Also, I was fairly weak at the time i did this so it could be significantly easier than 11a. If anyone has a name, post it. Crack addicts will have a few moments of fun, nothing more. Mar 18, 2009
joshf
missoula, mt
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] There is also an off width roof crack boulder problem right next to the start of this route...too hard for me but it might be fun for those into such things. Apr 21, 2009
Clay Mansfield
[Hide Comment] Tried removing the block yesterday, and before I could get it all the way off my low quality car jack broke. So, as of now it is still on but more precarious than before. I wouldn't recommend getting near the base of this climb until I can get back with a better jack. Hopefully sometime this week. Jul 5, 2010
Clay Mansfield
[Hide Comment] The large block was removed on 7/11 and I was able to climb it clean. There's still some loose stuff but it's better now than it was. I thought it was maybe 5.10- to 5.10. I'm not sure if it was the FA, but regardless, it's worth doing if you're at the druid with your gear. Can be done safely without the bolts up top on the slab, using the crack off to the left. Thanks to joshf for putting the anchors in and posting it on mp! Jul 15, 2010
joshf
missoula, mt
  5.10+
[Hide Comment] Clay, Who was your belayer so I can add them to the FA? Jun 23, 2012
Clay Mansfield
[Hide Comment] Belayer was Craig Stockavas Jun 25, 2012
1Eric Rhicard
Tucson
 
[Hide Comment] If you are desperate for some trad it has a short bit of crack. Jun 1, 2013