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Routes in The Giants Molars

Gravity Cavity S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Grumpy S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Root Canal S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tooth Fairy S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Unknown S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Unknown Cave Route S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 55 ft
FA: Vaino Kodas, Jen Payne November 08
Page Views: 78 total, 1/month
Shared By: Shirtless Mike on Mar 17, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

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Thompson Canyon Details

Description

Start up some chossy slabby rock to the first bolt. Clip and get established onto the steep wall above. Closely spaced bolts lead to a powerful move off a bad hold and some powerful lockoff's. Pull onto a vertical section and rest for a few more tricky moves guarding the chains. More pumpy and difficult than it seems it should be. New route and lots of loose rock potential, should get better if it ever cleans up, but probably won't get much traffic.

http://www.vainokodas.com/climbing/nmroutes/giantsmolars.html

Location

Furthest left route on Giant's Molars, Goes up the left arete outside of the cave.

Protection

8 Bolts to Chain Anchors

Photos

BenClimbing
  5.11d
BenClimbing  
  5.11d
I agree with the previous remark. Very fun after you scramble past the cruddy start. Dec 14, 2009
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
 
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
 
Aside from the bottom 10 feet, I thought this route was excellent. Not really any loose rock other than that, just a little flakey for the right foot when working the rounded arete. Cruxy getting to and past the 3rd bolt, then again moving past the 6th. Good sequences, especially at the bottom where the tendency is to barndoor off. Balancey, sustained, and pumpy, this was a whole lotta fun! Jun 21, 2009