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Routes in Dewey Bridge
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Albino Groove T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13 |
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Greed - Dirty Deed T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b |
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Loathing- Less Clothing T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1 |
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West Tower T C1+ |
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| Type: | Trad, 50 ft (15 m) |
| FA: | Tristan Higbee, 3/14/09, solo |
| Page Views: | 1,589 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Tristan Higbee on Mar 16, 2009 |
| Admins: | slim, Cory N, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane |
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Use onX Backcountry to explore the terrain in 3D, view recent satellite imagery, and more. Now available in onX Backcountry Mobile apps! For more information see this post.
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek
Details
WET ROCK: Holds rip off and climbs have been and will continue to be permanently damaged due to climbers not respecting this phenomenon. After a heavy storm the rock will remain wet, sometimes for several days. PLEASE DO NOT CLIMB IN MOAB during or after rain.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
RAPTOR CLOSURES: please be aware of seasonal raptor closures. They occur annually in the spring.
Description
This route isn't super classic but is a fun little jaunt. Plus it's a tower. Sort of...
Start up a slightly chossy seam that opens up for a cam placement or two. Gain the big ledge, get a few more cams in, and mantle the horizontal pillar sticking out of the base of the fin proper. Place a nut (take your nut tool to get all of the sand out of the crack), make a move or two, place the red Camalot down and to your right, then make a couple more moves to the top.
Getting to the ledge is 5.6, the mantle is 5.easy, and the rest to the top is 5.easier.
Start up a slightly chossy seam that opens up for a cam placement or two. Gain the big ledge, get a few more cams in, and mantle the horizontal pillar sticking out of the base of the fin proper. Place a nut (take your nut tool to get all of the sand out of the crack), make a move or two, place the red Camalot down and to your right, then make a couple more moves to the top.
Getting to the ledge is 5.6, the mantle is 5.easy, and the rest to the top is 5.easier.
Location
The formation is to the south of Fear and Loathing, along the same ridge. The route starts on the west face at an obvious seam.
Protection
I used .4 (purple,) .5 (green), 1 (red), 3 (blue), and 4 (old style purple) Camalots, plus a #5 Stopper. The #4 Camalot wasn't necessary but I had it with me and figured I'd place it. There's a sling and a quicklink around the top of the formation. I'd recommend taking a longer sling (the one I used was tied out of a 9' piece of webbing) so that it can go around some better rock a few inches lower...
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