Type: Trad, 110 ft (33 m), Grade II
FA: John Glime- solo, 3/15/09
Page Views: 1,418 total · 10/month
Shared By: John J. Glime on Mar 15, 2009
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route

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This climb starts out as a pile of choss. It pretty much continues that way throughout, with a few nice pieces of stone mixed in.

Start on the southern shoulder. Climb dangerous rock up the face past one bolt to better rock. Continue towards a small tree on a ledge, then diagonal back left past another bolt to a ledge that divides the west face and the southern face. Follow this arete-ish line up past two more bolts to the top. The last bolt protects the 5.8 move off of the ledge. It might stop you from hitting the ledge, but probably not... it can definitely be used to french free this challenging section. ;)

The climbing is mainly scary 5.5 throughout with a two move 5.8 thrown in as described.

The route is not aesthetic. The rock is crap. But the formation is nice looking, and it is fun to stand on top. It looks easier and shorter than it is.

Be extremely careful of loose rock.

Descent: I used one 60 meter rope that allowed me to 'drop' to safety. Worse case, you could down climb a few feet.


When driving on nine mile road, between mile markers 41 and 42 is the turn off to Prickly Pear Canyon to the south. Make a creek crossing (a truck/suv would give you peace of mind), then continue up the road until you cross over a cattle guard. Not too far beyond the road will curve back to the left. Park at this corner and you will see the 'castle' back to the west.


A couple of long slings, four quickdraws, and two number two camalots seems like it is enough. (I didn't have two number two camalots unfortunately.)