Continue with onX Maps
Sign in with Facebook
Routes in Buffalo Wall
|
Buffalo Soldiers T 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b R |
|
|
Tatanka T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b A2-3 R |
| Type: | Trad, Aid, 900 ft (273 m), 8 pitches, Grade IV |
| GPS: | 36.14438, -115.50711 |
| FA: | Richard Harrison, Paul Van Betten, and Sal Mamusia, 1993 |
| Page Views: | 3,925 total · 19/month |
| Shared By: | J. Thompson on Mar 15, 2009 · Updates |
| Admins: | Luke EF, Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen |
Access Issue: IMPORTANT notes on Wet Rock and Human Waste
Details
HUMAN WASTE: Human waste is a major issue plaguing the area. The Southern Nevada Climbers Coalition (SNCC) works to provide "wag bags" free of charge in several locations: Black Velvet Canyon, The Hamlet, Kraft Mountain Area, The Gallery, and The Black Corridor. These bags are designed so that you can pack your waste out. Consider bringing one to be part of your daily kit no matter where you go. Once used, please dispose of them properly. Do not throw them in the toilets at the parking areas.
See https://www.southernnevadaclimbers.org/wag-bags for more information on the program.
Description
Pitch 1: Climb the slab leading to a good ledge at the base of obvious overhanging corner. Belay from 1 good bolt and a big cam. 5.6, 120ft.
Pitch 2: Climb the steep corner/dihedral above. At the top of the corner follow a short bolt ladder past a small tree. Climb past a couple more bolts to reach the anchor, which is 2 good bolts and an okay stance. A2+, 130ft.
Pitch 3: Face climb up and right, passing a huge detached block. Head for the obvious crack above. Follow this crack to a short left ward traverse leading to a bolt ladder on a steep section. At the top of the bolt ladder a couple more moves guard the anchor. The anchor has 1 very good bolt, bring a couple small cams(black alien) and/or a baby angle. There is a very good but sloping and shit covered ledge here. 5.9R, A2, 130ft.
Pitch 4: The Swift corner. Follow the splitter crack(under a roof) left and turn the corner. Continue up the crack until you reach a bolt. Continue up a very long section of bolts and hooking, with a few free moves here and there, on good rock. The belay is hanging and has 1 very good bolt and 1 okay bolt. 5.9, C2, 170ft.
Pitch 5: Start free climbing off the belay. Clip 1 good bolt then traverse right on the obvious foot rail. You are heading for a bolt just over a small roof. Step up high on this bolt to reach a bathook in the varnish above. Step up high on the bathook and mantle onto a big ledge. Go up and left on the ledge, being careful of loose rock. Belay at 2 very good but spaced bolts. This is Pabst Blue Ribbon ledge and would make a good place to bivy. 5.10R, C2, 100ft.
Pitch 6: Free climb up and traverse right then back left. You are aiming for the first bolt of a bolt ladder up an incredibly steep wall. Climb the bolt ladder with the occasional free move. At it's top traverse right on a small ledge to reach the belay at 2 good bolts. 5.9, C1. 130ft.
Pitch 7: Free climb off the belay by traversing right then straight up to a tree on a sloping ledge. Continue up the headwall above climbing on hooks between bolts. Belay at a good ledge from 2 good bolts. 5.8, C2. 140ft.
Pitch 8: Free climb up off the belay. About 20ft up traverse right on a small ledge. Face climb up aiming for the obvious right facing Dihedral. Pull over the top and tie off to a couple of trees.
5.9, 170ft.
2 Comments