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Doug Reed Solo

5.10-, TR, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 2.6 from 47 votes
FA: Doug Reed
N Carolina > 1. Southern Mou… > Rumbling Bald > Cereal Buttress

Description

Climb the textured face via crimps, smears and the occasional good hold. It is best to top-rope this after leading Frosted Flake, since there is no gear to lead it.

Location

Just to the left of Frosted Flake.

Protection

Top Rope from the anchors on Frosted Flake.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Built a gear nest of a nut and a purple, blue, and black totem to protect the crux. Getting good enough gear there was pretty finicky, and there's still no way to protect the 5.8/9 climbing above till you get to the crack and can place a #4.
[Hide Photo] Built a gear nest of a nut and a purple, blue, and black totem to protect the crux. Getting good enough gear there was pretty finicky, and there's still no way to protect the 5.8/9 climbing above t…
On a TR of Doug Reed Solo, Rumbling Bald, NC.
[Hide Photo] On a TR of Doug Reed Solo, Rumbling Bald, NC.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brad Caldwell
Deep in the Jocassee Gorges
[Hide Comment] I know you didnt just open up that can of worms Tyler;) Its the Carolina's, so no bolts added unless FA consents and generally community wants it too...honestly, there isnt a demand for this route, and as it says, its really just best to TR it after leading Frosted Flake. There is too much of a cluster f@#k around the Cereal Area as is too...turning this sport would just add to the overuse of the area and create bigger traffic jams. Feb 4, 2014
Russ Keane
Salt Lake
[Hide Comment] Per the 2019 Doug Reid interview on carolinaclimbingmuseum.org, this was done as a *DOWNCLIMB* free solo (on-sight I assume). By the way, is his name Reed or Reid. Anyway that video of him remembering all sorts of stuff is great. It's over an hour long and includes his first climbing experiences as a 14 year-old with his brother in Linville Gorge. He talks about all the barefoot free-soloing he was doing. And the "race" to capture all the tasty 5.11-5.12 first ascents in the region. Jan 7, 2020
[Hide Comment] Fun small crimps and lots of good feet. Very fun to do on top-rope once Frosted Flake has been led (by a much stronger climber). Apr 2, 2021