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Routes in Main Wall

Bastard, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bitch, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blazing Saddles TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crucifixion TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grungie TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Grungie Face TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hipster TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
In Your Face TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leap of Faith TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost Religion TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Old Dutch Climber's Route TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
RC Direct T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rappel Crack TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rotary TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soul Patch Direct TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Spider Balls TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spider Man TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spider Man Direct TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spider Man Indirect TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ten Pins TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unappreciated TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed A TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unnamed B TR 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Vision of Stem TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Wing Wang Woof TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Pages TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 283 total, 3/month
Shared By: truello on Mar 13, 2009
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


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Description

Starting just left of Grungie, climb the face straight up.

Protection

Build your own anchor at the top.

Photos

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kenr
  5.4
kenr  
  5.4
Going straight up the face which is to the left of the Grungie Gully (and to the right of another gully: ? Hipster ?)
is not remotely 5.4

To get something like 5.4, start by climbing up the Grungie gully for about 10 feet, to where there is a wide ledge to the left. Then go up with two more steps on footholds on the ridge along the right side of the Grungie gully. Then go left onto the face and starting from there, climb up the face between the two gullies.
. (Going higher with feet on the right-side ridge before traversing left onto the face makes it easier but misses out on the most interesting face-climbing moves) .
. (Trying to start up the face directly from the wide ledge without stepping on the right ridge is harder than 5.4) .

Left-side Start: More interesting (and a bit harder) is to start by climbing the first 10 feet of the big gully which is about 10 feet to the left of the Grungie gully, then walk across the wide ledge to the Grungie gully, then continue as the previous paragraph. The easier (5.4) way to do this start is surprising, and fun when (if?) figure it out.

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Another possibility for a 5.4 pitch nearby (with a completely different top anchor) is to start up the Grungie gully for about 10-15 feet, then bear right into the wide inside corner between the Grungie gully and the Blazing Saddles inside corner. Go higher up that to just under a little roof, then step right into the Blazing Saddles corner and finish up that. May 23, 2015