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Routes in Main Wall

Bastard, The TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Bitch, The TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Blazing Saddles TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Crucifixion TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Grungie TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Grungie Face TR 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Hipster TR 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
In Your Face TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Leap of Faith TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Lost Religion TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Old Dutch Climber's Route TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
RC Direct T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Rappel Crack TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Rotary TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Soul Patch Direct TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Spider Balls TR 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Spider Man TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spider Man Direct TR 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Spider Man Indirect TR 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Ten Pins TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unappreciated TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Unnamed A TR 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Unnamed B TR 5.14d 9a 35 XI 36 E10 7c
Vision of Stem TR 5.3 3+ 10 III 9 VD 3a
Wing Wang Woof TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Yellow Pages TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Type: TR
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,131 total, 11/month
Shared By: truello on Mar 13, 2009 with updates
Admins: Justin Johnsen, Kyle Stapp

You & This Route


13 Opinions

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Description

Climb the obvious crack on right side of wall to the top.

Protection

Build your own anchor at the top.

Photos

John Wanner
  5.7+
John Wanner  
  5.7+
I wouldn't recommend this route to a beginning leader-no matter how you start it, the first 15 feet or so is a bit tricky to read, not trivial and difficult if not impossible to protect adequately. Once you're into the crack, you may be able to sew it up, but this is one of the most physical "5.6's" I've done, so even with good feet, you have to seriously hang on while placing gear. Definitely not for a beginning 5.6-5.7 leader unless s/he's pretty strong. Overall, it's a good route with lots of interesting moves that just keep comin' at you, and well worth doing with an easy set on a TR. Oct 3, 2016
kenr
  5.7
kenr  
  5.7
location: This route is the obvious crack which starts about 10-15 feet off the ground -- to the right of Yellow Pages (and to the right of Rotary and RC Direct?) -- and to the left of Vision of Stem (and to the left of Unappreciated?)

start: One guidebook suggests starting on Leap of Faith and up diagonally right to join the Crack. Perhaps a little easier (and sufficiently interesting) is to start on Vision of Stem then go left to the bottom of the Crack. Or the

Direct start Variation (5.9) -- Start roughly underneath the Crack (perhaps a bit to its left), and work up through two solution pockets to the left of Vision of Stem start. Interesting sequence.

the Crack: Lots of thoughtful fun moves with a variety of techniques. Pretty sustained in difficulty. May 23, 2015
minquatrails
Lancaster PA
 
minquatrails   Lancaster PA
 
This route is a lot of fun! Lots of places for gear and enough comfortable stances to place it. Excellent climb for new trad leaders. May 18, 2013
Jeff O'Farrell
Chambersburg PA
Jeff O'Farrell   Chambersburg PA
Fun climb, you can sew this crack up with chocks!

I think it is an area classic. Jun 13, 2011