Bad Sock Puppet   5.11d

[Hide Comment] A truly sick climb! I thought the beginning was the hardest part with the crux somewhere around the third clip. Big throws from jug to jug. Lots of heelhooks makes for good rests, plus with a bomber hold everytime you need one you should send this easily. Dec 19, 2009

mattjbudd Budd West Valley, UT   5.11c

[Hide Comment] Absolutely an amazing route! I love the sequencing! I felt it was a little soft for a 5.11d. Nothing seemed too hard. youtube.com/watch?v=x46ax7c… Apr 4, 2010

jeffozozo santa clara, utah   5.11d

[Hide Comment] nice video, matt. Oct 1, 2010

Tyler N Salt Lake City, UT   5.11d

[Hide Comment] Amazing route! Hard moves in the beginning section to the third bolt and clipping those tiny anchor chains was an enormous pain. Mar 16, 2013

jeffozozo santa clara, utah   5.11d

[Hide Comment] This route is truly amazing. The holds are big and positive, the bolts are close together and the movement is unique and totally fun. The holds stay big after you turn the lip, so you can rest up a little before you go for the chains. The comment about clipping the small chains is true. would anyone object if I added a quick-link to that right hand side? Aug 28, 2014

B Roth American Fork

[Hide Comment] Adding a stainless steel quick link is a bad idea unless the chain, hanger, and bolt are stainless as well. The mixture of stainless and plated steel will cause galvanic corrosion and the anchor will likely start rusting the next time it gets wet. Sep 30, 2014

Claire Pokorny

[Hide Comment] The second bolt on this route popped out last Thursday, and without it decking is fairly inevitable if you fall before clipping the third bolt. Apr 1, 2017

Garrett Carter SL, UT   5.11d

[Hide Comment] As of 4/30/17, second bolt is still missing. Falling before clipping the 3rd bolt would result in a deck for sure. May 1, 2017

Mike Womack Orcutt, CA

[Hide Comment] As of late December '17, 2nd bolt is still missing. Anybody out there that does local maintenance I can give a few bucks to? Many of the other bolts at turtle were in nasty shape as well... Dec 28, 2017

Taylor Spiegelberg WY

[Hide Comment] February 2018 this route has been redone in Wavebolts! Could use some steel lower off biners if you make it out here. Fixed first draw to aid in cleaning. Thanks locals! Stupid fun climb. Feb 11, 2018

Garrett Carter SL, UT   5.11d

[Hide Comment] One of the best climbs I have done ever. Amazing steep climb up huge jugs. Pretty sustained. All bolts were glue ins and intact. Chains looked good as well. This one is absolutely worth doing. Felt a bit easier than the 11c to the right of it. Mar 21, 2018

Ryan Selfaison Provo, UT   5.11d

[Hide Comment] January 2019. Such a sick line! youtube.com/watch?v=9owVWua… Apr 18, 2020

Nicholas Van Epp Moab, UT

[Hide Comment] Just a heads up that from first-hand experience if you blow clipping the anchors decking is possible. Stay safe. Feb 21, 2021

Lauren Yeiser   5.11d

[Hide Comment] Someone left gear on the wall at the third and fourth bolts. Both draws experience substantial rubbing. The fourth draw broke on the kid climbing before us. The lack of perma draws at these two bolts seems intentional. I would not trust draws left on the wall nor would I leave them. Apr 25, 2022

Daniel Chode Rider

[Hide Comment] Here's another video just cause I feel like it. youtu.be/bWRMsFA84so Dec 12, 2022

Aaron Shamy SLC

[Hide Comment] Beta Video 50 seconds Flash Attempt instagram.com/reel/CpyN5iMu… Mar 14, 2023

K Dub Out West   5.11d

[Hide Comment] If anyone needs a tutorial on how to use a stickclip to remove the first draw: instagram.com/reel/CjOrHVPA… May 10, 2024

Matt Lane Flagstaff AZ/Washington UT

[Hide Comment] Two locals from the Desert Rat were very generous and went out of their way to replace the entire climb with steel Fixe permadraws in June 2024. Far more confidence inspiring now. Draw #4 smacks the rock quite a bit; I noticed while lowering it had entirely unclipped at some point. I whipped on it several times in the crux - don't think it's an issue, though flipping the orientation of the gate looked like it could be better. Jul 31, 2024