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Routes in Sunny and Steep

Black Happy S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Blackened S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Cirque de Soleil S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Claimjumpers Special S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Edward Silverhands S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gimme Back My Bullets S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Mr Choad's Wild Ride S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Peak Performance S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Scorpions S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Slot Machine S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Sport Chimney S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Steep Thrills S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Sunny and Steep S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Tour de Pump S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
Turbo Dog S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b
Turtle Wax S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Working for Peanuts S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: Ward Smith & Steve Wood, 1994
Page Views: 10,965 total, 104/month
Shared By: Boodge Nomchompski on Mar 12, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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RAIN AND WET ROCK The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

A long, sustained, technical climb unlike the other climbs at Sunny And Steep.

Location

Around the corner to the right of the main area, 2nd route to the left of the chimney.

Protection

10 bolts, chains
lech
  5.11d PG13
lech  
  5.11d PG13
Comments and ticks claiming this to be hard at the grade and harder than the 12 to the left. But the same people still select 11b for suggested rating. confusing and defeats the purpose. I found this climb to lack feet and be reachy. May have a foot hold or 2 missing or maybe I was just tired. Apr 13, 2017
the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
 
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
 
Spooky (but safe) and excellent. Nov 28, 2016
MN norske
Henderson
 
MN norske   Henderson
 
There is a sweet mono at one of the crux's. Use it, but don't fall cause you would possibly break your finger. May 14, 2015
Jean Spencer
Squamish, CA
 
Jean Spencer   Squamish, CA
 
+1 "Thin crux in middle with no real rest after." Apr 7, 2015
JF1
Las Vegas
  5.11-
JF1   Las Vegas
  5.11-
Thanks to a donation from the ASCA stainless steel carabiners and quick links were added to this anchor. Oct 29, 2013
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
  5.11b
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
  5.11b
Brilliant line. Thin crux in middle with no real rest after. Feb 28, 2013
Jack Kearney  
 
A must do in red rocks, can't believe I live here and it's taken me this long to get on it. One of the best sport routes in the area and probably the best route of the grade I have ever been on. Jan 11, 2013
Phil Lauffen
The Bubble
Phil Lauffen   The Bubble
60m works just fine. Maybe clean the draws on the way down (I did) and tie a knot.

This climb is the biggest disappointment on my red rocks climbing trip. I was not climbing well and was actually remarkably scared at some of the "runouts", if you could even call them that. However the moves were very good, I just wished I linked them. May 3, 2010
John Wilder
Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b
John Wilder   Las Vegas, NV
  5.11b
Quite good- sustained and demanding at the grade. Not sure this is over 100 feet, though, I used a 70m and after lowering there was a big pile of rope on the ground.

Watch the anchors- if someone thinks of it, take some chains or contact me and I'll get you some mussy hooks- the glue-ins are starting to show quite a bit of wear.

Well worth the hike. May 1, 2010
Tradiban  
 
Absolutely classic route! Jan 5, 2010
Extraordinarily good route, one of the best sport routes I've ever done at the grade. Long, continuous, and somewhat spicy if your pumped! Nov 30, 2009
MJW
Boise, ID
  5.11a/b
MJW   Boise, ID
  5.11a/b
Really good!! Giant holds. One spot in the middle has smaller than average holds and is a bit reachy. Hang tough here, crank thru, and the holds get really good again. Fire to the top.....sick!!! Apr 27, 2009
hEatchel
Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11b
hEatchel   Salt Lake City, Utah
  5.11b
SOOOOOO fun .... took me about 30 minutes to onsight really awesome technical climbing with good rests, 105 feet !!!!!!!!!!! Mar 22, 2009