Type: Sport, 105 ft
FA: Ward Smith & Steve Wood, 1994
Page Views: 14,555 total · 119/month
Shared By: E IV on Mar 12, 2009
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route

275 Opinions

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Access Issue: Red Rock RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone is fragile and is very easily damaged when wet. Details


A long, sustained, technical climb unlike the other climbs at Sunny And Steep.


Around the corner to the right of the main area, 2nd route to the left of the chimney.


10 bolts, chains
Salt Lake City, Utah
hEatchel   Salt Lake City, Utah
SOOOOOO fun .... took me about 30 minutes to onsight really awesome technical climbing with good rests, 105 feet !!!!!!!!!!! Mar 22, 2009
Boise, ID
MJW   Boise, ID
Really good!! Giant holds. One spot in the middle has smaller than average holds and is a bit reachy. Hang tough here, crank thru, and the holds get really good again. Fire to the top.....sick!!! Apr 27, 2009
Extraordinarily good route, one of the best sport routes I've ever done at the grade. Long, continuous, and somewhat spicy if your pumped! Nov 30, 2009
Absolutely classic route! Jan 5, 2010
Las Vegas, NV
J W   Las Vegas, NV
Quite good- sustained and demanding at the grade. Not sure this is over 100 feet, though, I used a 70m and after lowering there was a big pile of rope on the ground.

Watch the anchors- if someone thinks of it, take some chains or contact me and I'll get you some mussy hooks- the glue-ins are starting to show quite a bit of wear.

Well worth the hike. May 1, 2010
Phil Lauffen
Innsbruck, AT
Phil Lauffen   Innsbruck, AT  
60m works just fine. Maybe clean the draws on the way down (I did) and tie a knot.

This climb is the biggest disappointment on my red rocks climbing trip. I was not climbing well and was actually remarkably scared at some of the "runouts", if you could even call them that. However the moves were very good, I just wished I linked them. May 3, 2010
Jack Kearney  
A must do in red rocks, can't believe I live here and it's taken me this long to get on it. One of the best sport routes in the area and probably the best route of the grade I have ever been on. Jan 11, 2013
Tim Wolfe
Salt Lake City, UT
Tim Wolfe   Salt Lake City, UT  
Brilliant line. Thin crux in middle with no real rest after. Feb 28, 2013
Las Vegas
JF1   Las Vegas
Thanks to a donation from the ASCA stainless steel carabiners and quick links were added to this anchor. Oct 29, 2013
Jean Spencer
Squamish, CA
Jean Spencer   Squamish, CA
+1 "Thin crux in middle with no real rest after." Apr 7, 2015
MN norske
MN norske   Henderson
There is a sweet mono at one of the crux's. Use it, but don't fall cause you would possibly break your finger. May 14, 2015
the schmuck
Albuquerque, NM
the schmuck   Albuquerque, NM
Spooky (but safe) and excellent. Nov 28, 2016
  5.11d PG13
  5.11d PG13
Comments and ticks claiming this to be hard at the grade and harder than the 12 to the left. But the same people still select 11b for suggested rating. confusing and defeats the purpose. I found this climb to lack feet and be reachy. May have a foot hold or 2 missing or maybe I was just tired. Apr 13, 2017
Aaron Townsley
Scottsdale, Arizona
Aaron Townsley   Scottsdale, Arizona
good edging for a long... long... time... a bit run out but totally safe. Thin traverse right with bad feet then keep holding onto those edges for the next forever until you get to the chains... :) Dec 14, 2017
Got my ass handed to me on this one. Hardest 11b I've ever tried. Bolts felt pretty far apart after the flash pump. Hehe doesn't help if you've been spending the past few months climbing only splitters like me. Dec 25, 2017
Izzy Nawfal
Redondo Beach, CA
Izzy Nawfal   Redondo Beach, CA
Super fun! Take advantage of the rests. There are some great jams to shake out on near the top if you look for them. Feb 26, 2018
Dustin Stephens
Dustin Stephens  
Amazing route, one of the best bolted mid-11's in the US! Only critique is that most of the bolts are a foot or two out of reach from obvious good stances. Apr 7, 2018
mc kaiser
Lander, Wy
mc kaiser   Lander, Wy
I just couldn't help but spray about how amazing this climb is. It's definitely in the top 5 sport climbs I've ever done (whatever that's worth). The bolting is totally safe, and spaced perfectly so that it really grabbed my attention. I can't totally explain it, but somehow the name feels exactly right... Aug 2, 2018