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Routes in Turtle Rocks

40oz of Freedom T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
5.11c S 5.11a/b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Chafin' Chaffee T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c
Cherry T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cisco Kid T,S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Double Scooter S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dr. Who T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Knobs S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Knobs Up S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Lemonis Lament T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Robbin' the Hood TR 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Saw Blade S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Scalsamine S 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shoulder Season S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Slot, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Smack and Spray S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a
Uncle Kurt's Disco T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Unloved C2
You Call Yourself a Thief? T,S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 80 ft
FA: unknown
Page Views: 144 total · 1/month
Shared By: Lee Jenkins on Mar 11, 2009
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

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The route follows the only wandering crack to the top. The crack starts off at 2 1/2" and gets smaller as you go. Gear is required for anchors above.

As of 2nd ascent on 3/11, it still needs cleaning. The more the better. It is a very fun route with a couple of good rests for the new .9 leader.


Hike down the "Wall Street" gully, and turn left.


Gear to 2 1/2 inches. Lots of smaller stuff.


- No Photos -
Hi Lee and all who have read this post.
Any and all cracks on Wall Street, all three sides of it, have been lead by lots of people over the last 30 plus years that I know of. I won't say I did anything first here as it is so popular of a wall. Hopefully you meant another direction to take. If it had some dirt in it in March of '09, it probable washed down this past winter. Lots of climbers don't waste time with unnecessary cleaning, me included, which is why I leave it there, I would rather be climbing than cleaning.
Glad you do take the time to check out some of the routes.
Doug Ranck Mar 17, 2009