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Routes in Jim's Buttress

Hootenanny T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Jim Dandy S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Trevor Bowman,JSt,'09
Page Views: 694 total, 7/month
Shared By: 1Eric Rhicard on Mar 11, 2009
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick

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Description

Tricky start just above the belay with fun climbing to a great final crux roof move.

Location

On the west face of the buttress it starts from a ledge about 30 ft. up.

Protection

Bolts and a #2 and #3 camalot for the final crack.
Steve Pulver
Williston, ND
Steve Pulver   Williston, ND
I tried this route in '09 and bailed midway up. Every time I went back to Milagrosa, I always noticed my bail QD was still there. I finally went back and got my draw back yesterday. It seems like this route deserves some more traffic than it gets.

The route can be done from the ground with a 70 m rope. Dec 10, 2012
Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
Just a couple of additions to Eric's description: There are 8 bolts on the line and both the bottom crux crimpy bit and the roof are bolt protected. A #1 and #2 (#3 is too big I think) camalot work well in the upper crack, which is 20' of great 5.8/9 hand and finger. Longer runners on some of the bolts are advisable, as the route weaves around a good bit, especially in the middle section. There are also clip-and-lower anchors, although cleaning while lowering can be a bit problematic. The route's about 100' long.

This is a cool varied climb, offering sequential crimping, funky balance climbing, a classic roof pull, and some fun easier crack. Many thanks to Jim Scott for graciously giving me first lead on my birthday! The name comes from the resident Great Horned owls which were hooting from a hidden roost nearby while we were working on the route. Mar 25, 2009