Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jeff Achey, Tracy Martin, 2005
Page Views: 53 total · 0/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Mar 11, 2009
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


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Description

This interesting climb begins with some easy approach slabs to the steep, overhanging start beneath the "black tongue" of bat guano coming out of a large hole. Clip the first bolt and make fun movements on big huecos/pockets to the right of the "black tongue." The first crux comes at the fifth piece of protection (bolt, bolt, pin, bolt) as you must navigate a small, but steep overhang, trying to keep your hand off of the bat guano jug while trying to locate the good holds above and sort out the sequence that would equal a 5.10c rating. Then, before the anchor, another set of moves is encountered at the final bolt, again with a good search for quality holds that will match its rating. Finish on big holds to the anchors.

Initially, this climb felt harder than 5.10c but after getting some chalk on the holds it felt about right. It's a bit adventurous compared to your typical sport route but after a couple of laps on it I started to like it.

Be careful belaying on this because if you belay at the ground your belayer will be several feet from the cliff and could be pulled forcefully into the wall with a good leader fall. Conversely, the belayer could scamble up the slab and belay below the first bolt, but there is no anchor bolt and not a lot of space. Your call.

Location

Black Tongue is located on the left side of the Middle Earth area. From the approach trail, look for a large hole with a "black tongue" of bat guano coming out. That's it.

Protection

5 bolts and 1 fixed pin to anchors.

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