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Stellar Crack

5.7, Trad, 90 ft (27 m),  Avg: 2.8 from 19 votes
FA: Unknown, Pre 2003
California > San Diego County > N San Diego County > Poway Crags > Ramona Wall > Stellar Walls
Access Issue: The Ramona Wall and Miller Time Walls have seasonal closure Dec 1 through July 31 Details

Description

The best 5.7 crack in San Diego! Climb up a left facing dihedral with a frictiony face for feet and a Stellar Crack for hands and gear. Exit up and right to a ledge on some exciting face climbing.

Protection

Small to 2". Save some small finger sized gear for higher up.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Chris Hubbard climbing Stellar Crack.
[Hide Photo] Chris Hubbard climbing Stellar Crack.
Matt on the lead .. <br>
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Felt more like 5.6 and was only about 60' tall
[Hide Photo] Matt on the lead .. Felt more like 5.6 and was only about 60' tall

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Matt Michael
Oceanside, CA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] Only wish It was another 90ft longer! Dec 6, 2013
Eric Van Williams
Oside,CA
  5.6
[Hide Comment] Wish it was taller, a frisbee sized flake ripped off near the top while I was I this one. Dec 14, 2013
Lou Cerutti
Carlsbad, California
  5.8-
[Hide Comment] Best half rope-length of "easy" crack climbing in SD. I had so much fun climbing this. Double crux in second half of the route. Pretty exciting climbing out of the crack and above your last piece; I'd guess that's where the 5.8 comes in. A must do while in the area. I almost skipped over it. Glad I didn't. TONS of dormant poison oak (leaf less) during this time of year. It was crawling right up the wall around the double dragon arete. We moved it but be VERY careful if you're sensitive. Make sure you're able to identify it. Nov 27, 2016
Winterparkmg McGehee
El Cajon, CA
[Hide Comment] I disagree with Eric Van Williams' feelings about the grade. For 5.6, I must have missed 90% of the jugs... If you're a 5.6 leader just out for a good time, this will scare the pants off you. My partner and I climb better than 5.6, and I felt that 5.8 is an accurate, full value rating. I was a little surprised at the thin fingers at the top; I have meaty hands, hence the full-value opinion. Super safe route though, and the .10d start is a really fun boulder problem to get off the ground! Sep 19, 2017
mschlocker
San Diego, CA
  5.7
[Hide Comment] There have been a few comments about the rating. 5.10 climbers think this is a 5.6 while 5.6 climbers cannot flash it. It's tough to accurately grade a climb too far from your limit in either direction. When I graded this 5.8 I had a friend who was working this route and got so close every time but would take a fall in the fingers section or at the very top. She was reasonably solid on 5.7 but usually had trouble with 5.8 climbs. This route is not very continuous but you have to grade on the crux, which is what will prevent the onsight as in my example. It used to be dirtier which particularly made the exit more exciting. With all of the comments I have received I will downgrade this to a solid 5.7. I don't think 5.6 is accurate.
As for the length, also commented on, I suppose it depends where you start. I always had the belayer stand on the ground. What I do know is that I don't have a ton of rope left when I rappel back to the ground. Nice to let people know a shorter rope may not make it back down. Oct 30, 2017
Kyle Heavey
San Diego, CA
 
[Hide Comment] Recommend warming up on this and either TR or leading double dragon arete for good value. I used the rappel to swing over the bushes and was quite helpful as we continued to Roshambo.

In my opinion the grade remains 5.7 and the top out is definitely exciting seeing as I opted for climbing the face over some bird feces instead of continuing up the direction of the crack. I think the exposure keeps it feeling harder for people, but the stances, friction, and holds are solid in that grade. I think having the belayer on the ground isn't the best method if you anticipate a fall, factoring the rope stretch will make the falls a little longer, which in theory is good, but it mainly is to just keep you from rolling down the cliff, not providing an airy catch. That being said my belayer was on the ground, but I had confidence on a 5.7 on-sight lead, so it was a negligible risk. If this route is hard for you, I recommend practicing good lieback technique and confidence in jamming. For those missing jugs, the feet stances are pretty positive and provide good rest for the confident of leaders. Oct 3, 2021