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Routes in Stellar Walls

Double Dragon Arete S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Gecko Staircase T,S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Stellar Crack T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unfinished Business S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Type: Trad, 90 ft
FA: Unknown, Pre 2003
Page Views: 2,254 total, 21/month
Shared By: mschlocker on Mar 9, 2009
Admins: Marc Kajut, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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The Ramona Wall and Miller Time Walls have seasonal closure Dec 15 through August 31 Details
Current San Diego County Advisories Details

Description

The best 5.7 crack in San Diego! Climb up a left facing dihedral with a frictiony face for feet and a Stellar Crack for hands and gear. Exit up and right to a ledge on some exciting face climbing.

Protection

Small to 2". Save some small finger sized gear for higher up.

Photos

mschlocker
San Diego, CA
 
mschlocker   San Diego, CA
 
There have been a few comments about the rating. 5.10 climbers think this is a 5.6 while 5.6 climbers cannot flash it. It's tough to accurately grade a climb too far from your limit in either direction. When I graded this 5.8 I had a friend who was working this route and got so close every time but would take a fall in the fingers section or at the very top. She was reasonably solid on 5.7 but usually had trouble with 5.8 climbs. This route is not very continuous but you have to grade on the crux, which is what will prevent the onsight as in my example. It used to be dirtier which particularly made the exit more exciting. With all of the comments I have received I will downgrade this to a solid 5.7. I don't think 5.6 is accurate.
As for the length, also commented on, I suppose it depends where you start. I always had the belayer stand on the ground. What I do know is that I don't have a ton of rope left when I rappel back to the ground. Nice to let people know a shorter rope may not make it back down. Oct 30, 2017
Winterparkmg
El Cajon, CA
Winterparkmg   El Cajon, CA
I disagree with Eric Van Williams' feelings about the grade. For 5.6, I must have missed 90% of the jugs... If you're a 5.6 leader just out for a good time, this will scare the pants off you. My partner and I climb better than 5.6, and I felt that 5.8 is an accurate, full value rating. I was a little surprised at the thin fingers at the top; I have meaty hands, hence the full-value opinion. Super safe route though, and the .10d start is a really fun boulder problem to get off the ground! Sep 19, 2017
Lou Cerutti
Carlsbad, California
 
Lou Cerutti   Carlsbad, California
 
Best half rope-length of "easy" crack climbing in SD. I had so much fun climbing this. Double crux in second half of the route. Pretty exciting climbing out of the crack and above your last piece; I'd guess that's where the 5.8 comes in. A must do while in the area. I almost skipped over it. Glad I didn't. TONS of dormant poison oak (leaf less) during this time of year. It was crawling right up the wall around the double dragon arete. We moved it but be VERY careful if you're sensitive. Make sure you're able to identify it. Nov 27, 2016
Eric Van Williams
Oside,CA
  5.6
Eric Van Williams   Oside,CA
  5.6
Wish it was taller, a frisbee sized flake ripped off near the top while I was I this one. Dec 14, 2013
Matt Michael
Oceanside, CA
  5.7
Matt Michael   Oceanside, CA
  5.7
Only wish It was another 90ft longer! Dec 6, 2013