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Routes in (o) Schoolhouse Rock

Check's in the Mail , The S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Conjunction Junction S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dollars and Sense S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Energy Blues, The S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Function Junction S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
House of Cards S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
I'm Just a Bill S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Interplanet Janet S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
My Hero Zero S 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c
Rufus Xavier Sarsaparilla TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Schoolhouse Rock S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Taxman Max S 5.5 4b 13 IV+ 11 MS 4a
Tyrannosaurus Debt S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Victim of Gravity S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
What's Your Function? S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Chris Miller, October 2008
Page Views: 1,705 total, 16/month
Shared By: C Miller on Mar 9, 2009
Admins: C Miller, Euan Cameron, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


46 Opinions

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Open, with restrictions: Park on the street Details

Description

Low-angled slab leads up to a bulge (crux) which is pulled using face holds and the arete. After the second bolt continue up the slabby arete past two more bolts to join The Energy Blues for it's last three bolts.

Location

Right of Schoolhouse Rock .

Protection

7 bolts, anchors (shared with The Energy Blues)
Slings are helpful on some of the bolts to cut down on rope-drag and protect the rope from running over any rough edges.

Photos

Alex Fletcher
Anaheim, CA
  5.7
Alex Fletcher   Anaheim, CA
  5.7
I practiced placing small stoppers in the cracks along this route. Feel like it could have been almost left as a trad route with just the first two bolts. May 31, 2016
Colin Parker
Idyllwild, CA
  5.8+
Colin Parker   Idyllwild, CA  
  5.8+
I went to Schoolhouse with a few beginners yesterday and agree that the crux of this route seemed to be much harder than 5.7. Jan 6, 2014
Roots
Tustin, CA
5.9+
Roots   Tustin, CA
5.9+
Had the pleasure of climbing this on Sunady....no way it's 5.7. More like 5.9+ crux move to make 2 second bolt. Other parties there agreed it was no where near 5.7 too.

I think the rating in the book is misleading and thus prompted me to post this opinion for moderate leaders. Oct 21, 2013
Tristan Burnham
La Crescenta, CA
Tristan Burnham   La Crescenta, CA
Yeah, I was freaking out on this thing, it felt real hard until I found the left hand side pull over the top of the buldge at the 2nd bolt. For sure 5.7 unless you are short, then it might be a little harder. Feb 13, 2012
C Miller
CA
 
C Miller   CA  
 
Climbed this again today and it's still 5.7, maybe a little trickier than normal but not 5.11 unless you avoid using the arete out right. Feb 12, 2012