Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Cheese Whiz Dispenser

Start Sucking T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a C1+
Type: Trad, Aid, 200 ft, 3 pitches, Grade III
FA: John Rzeczycki & Kiley Miller, 12-31-1999 FFA John Rzeczycki & Ralph Ferrara
Page Views: 1,127 total, 11/month
Shared By: Brad Brandewie on Mar 9, 2009
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Perin Blanchard, grk10vq

You & This Route


5 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

Whoever did the first ascent of this climb has a good eye. It’s a compelling line.

Pitch one – Climb up to a bolt and then out a series of small roofs on what turns into a beautiful hand crack. Continue up a right facing dihedral and then climb up and right past a bolt to a belay on a ledge. (5.9, C1)

Pitch two – Step left from the anchor and climb the crack past a fixed pin until you are perched below a 5-6 inch offwidth that diagonals up and right. Climb the wideness to a belay on the shoulder below the summit cone. (C1+)

Pitch three – Climb the bolt ladder to the summit. Bring a long cord to sling the summit. (C1)

Rap the route.

Protection

Two sets of cams to #6 Camalot.
(or be prepared to run it out on the second pitch)

Trevor Bowman
Sheridan, WY
 
Trevor Bowman   Sheridan, WY
 
A good route on a nice tower that should continue to clean up with a bit more traffic. We thought it felt a bit harder than Ben's ratings on both P1 and P2. I finished P2 with a new #5 Camalot still on my harness, although I could have left it down low on the pitch. I would have liked 3 #6 Camalots however, as the bulk of the pitch is this size. You can rap 3X with a single 70m rope. The route faces west and was shady until 2pm or so for us in mid-March, except for the short last pitch, which faces south. Mar 21, 2017
Bill, Matt and I climbed this the other day all free. Pitch one went at 5.11b. Pitch 2 is a really cool OW that has lots of features to avoid stacking, it went at 5.10b. The last pitch is a little soft but went free at 5.10a. Really fun free climbing! I would highly recommend! Aug 13, 2013
John J. Glime
Salt Lake City, UT
John J. Glime   Salt Lake City, UT
This is a really nice tower. We thought we were going to be the first to climb it... on the approach, that beautiful crack really stood out. We were psyched. We got to the base, took a drink and a piss, looked around a little more... and "doh" we saw a bolt. Buzz kill. Mar 9, 2009