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Motor Mouth

WI3, Ice, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 1 from 1 vote
FA: Brian Cabe and Josh Sonkiss 2/17/2008 simul solo
Utah > Central Utah > Maple Canyon > Maple Canyon Ice > Main Canyon Rd Ice

Description

Single 70 foot wide pitch to a low angle cobble field.

Location

From the mouth of the canyon, the first narrow slot south of the road. Just past where Jason’s book says, "wall looms over road here". Just past the first steep wall along the main road on the left. Climb up the narrow slot/gully, past a short step. Ice is located on the climber’s left side of the gully, after around 100 feet hike/climb up the gully. Hope for much snow in the gully to minimize groveling up the slot. We walked up to the rim and to the climber's left and rappelled (2 60m ropes) from a bush tied into a chockstone in a slot.

Protection

Fairly thick ice, all the way up with deeper ice bulges in the middle. May have to continue far up and to the left to find a top anchor (ie, we simul soloed the route).

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Approach up gully to Motor Mouth.  Note main road below.
[Hide Photo] Approach up gully to Motor Mouth. Note main road below.
TRing steep mixed ice left of Motor Mouth.  Fun!  Rumor has that this got lead prior to the next weekend (with a few bolts added for pro).  Great looking line.  Wished I'd have kept my big mouth shut...
[Hide Photo] TRing steep mixed ice left of Motor Mouth. Fun! Rumor has that this got lead prior to the next weekend (with a few bolts added for pro). Great looking line. Wished I'd have kept my big mouth sh…
Rappel anchor on Motor Mouth (puts rappeller further down the gully).
[Hide Photo] Rappel anchor on Motor Mouth (puts rappeller further down the gully).
Summit rim at top of Motor Mouth.
[Hide Photo] Summit rim at top of Motor Mouth.