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Fling
WI4,
Ice, Alpine, 220 ft (67 m), 2 pitches,
Avg: 1 from 2
votes
FA: Brian Smoot and Brian Cabe 2/23/2008
Utah
> Central Utah
> Maple Canyon
> Maple Canyon Ice
> Left Hand Fork Ice Cl…
Access Issue: Private Property/Skin or Hike Approach
Details
Continued access to Box Canyon is at the pleasure of the private landowner. Please...no dogs, no defecating in canyon. Pack it out. Pack it all out.
The best single book for Maple Canyon Ice Climbs is Jason Stevens' Maple Canyon Ice Climbing, available at area specialty equipment shops (or perhaps from him directly if you contact him on this site). Read it, especially his section on vehicular access issues.
All of the climbs in Maple Canyon absolutely require snow to provide moisture for the melt/freeze which forms these climbs, so snow-covered roads are pretty much a given. Plan to hike or skin up the road. It's a nice warm-up for the climbing, and will alleviate a lot of opportunities for a headache.
Description
Two pitches, WI 4 130 feet first pitch to a bolted belay/rappel anchor followed by an WI 3 80 foot pitch up ramp-y terrain to the large shelf. Tree belay/rappel. First pitch belay anchor is on a left facing shallow buttress which usually has exposed rock, and, is to the left of the summer rock climbs. Most likely very thin in spots.
Location
At the left side of Orangutan Wall. Located to the left of Get Whacked. In Jasons ice guide, this would be the right hand route listed as Route 5, "two potential routes (thin smears)".
Protection
Selection of short ice screws.
[Hide Photo] B Smoot on the second pitch of Fling.
[Hide Photo] Fling pitch one anchor location. Right above his blue helmet.
[Hide Photo] B Smoot on pitch one of "Fling". Note Get Whacked to the right.