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Routes in Juno Tower

Kicking It Old Testament S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Little Viking S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Pork Swords S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
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Type: Sport, 90 ft
FA: Scott Beguin, Jason Hundausen, Josh Smith, Rob Hilko, Miguel Hoffman, and David Volk
Page Views: 1,213 total · 10/month
Shared By: Scott Beguin on Mar 9, 2009
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


8 Opinions

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Description

This route travels the obvious line up the south face of Juno Tower. It offers a variety of different moves that beautifully weave its way up this awesome spire. The rock is solid and the climbing is consistent at the grade with the crux move being 5.10c and the rest of the climb is at a sustained 5.10. Be aware that most of the bolt line is consistently to the left of where the actual climbing is, most of the way up. The bolts were placed more to where the rock quality was the best. It has thought provoking movement and leaves you a couple of options to the anchors. This route is a very enjoyable outing and highly recommended.

Protection

10 bolts to a 2 bolt Fixe Rap Anchor.

Photos

Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
  5.10b
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
  5.10b
Excellent route! Has a little bit of everything in it. Original way to finish at the top was go left and do some fun balancy moves near the last bolt; an alternate finish and one that gives you some fun air is to exit right at the huecos near the top, pulling directly through the arete - be mindful though as it's easy to skip the last bolt. Mar 9, 2009
Warning--this new route seems to have been well-cleaned but I was able to easily pull off a rock heavier than me. I was a few feet off-route to the right, near the crux halfway up the climb; fortunately the rock landed several feet away from my belayer. Accidentally pulling off the boulder was a lot easier than the climb for me! :) Aug 10, 2009

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