Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Erik Farley, MIke Dunne, 1997
Page Views: 681 total · 6/month
Shared By: Adam Leedy on Mar 8, 2009
Admins: saxfiend, Jason Halladay, Shirtless Mike

You & This Route


41 Opinions

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Description

Good climbing for a 9. This is a really fun route and the view is amazing. The crux comes just after clipping the third bolt. Another hard section to clip the second bolt above the huge rest ledge. Can be done in two pitches to reduce rope drag. Climb to giant rest ledge, belay the second up, then climb the second pitch. Usually done in one pitch though.
Can top out to a second set of anchors also. It is a bit run out from the firs set to the second set and the climbing doesn't ease up much.

Location

This route ascends the arete on the front of the main pinnacle. 5.9 R to the top if you wish to top the route out.

Protection

Sport line but some of the bolts are pretty loose and spiny. Huge runout on super easy terrain at the rest ledge thus the reason for the PG13.

Photos

Kyndklimber
Grand Rapids
Kyndklimber   Grand Rapids
Great sport route.... first bolt is offten missing and if its not missing its always lose! May 14, 2009
Michael Day
Boulder, CO
 
Michael Day   Boulder, CO
 
I just climbed this today and didn't notice any loose bolts, there were some old ones removed and partially remaining so maybe the bolts have recently been replaced. This is a good climb but kinda had me sweating for a 5.9, especially when a wasp came out of a hand hold and made some attempts to sting me! Jun 10, 2012
Alex Mitchell
Phoenix, AZ
  5.9
Alex Mitchell   Phoenix, AZ
  5.9
This route is not PG-13! Even before they replaced the bolts the ones that were there did not seem that bad! Fun route with a really cool top out onto a pinacle. Gets blasted with sun! Sep 5, 2012
Katie Boue
my big yellow van, USA
 
Katie Boue   my big yellow van, USA
 
You gotta top this one out and enjoy the view from the top! Nov 9, 2013
C M
C M  
What is the quality of this route now? Jun 5, 2018
Bring some alpine draws for the 4th and 5th bolts. Otherwise, the rope drag could get pretty bad. I can see why this is rated PG-13- a fall before the 5th bolt would be rough even its easy climbing. Most of the bolts have been replaced with glue-ins as of Sept 2018.

If you plan on summiting, belay your follower from the second set of bolts about 8 feet above the anchors. The hardest climbing on the route is between the first anchor and the second. You can rap off from a set of rappel anchors on top of the pinnacle. Bring a 60m rope. The rap anchors are set about 6 feet back from the ledge which made it hard to pull our rope from the ground Sep 17, 2018