Rock n Road
Avg: 3.3 from 6 votes
Routes in Left End
|Aileron Roll S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c|
|Airway Arete S 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a|
|Diablo Cruiser, The T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b|
|Early Arete S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a|
|Humbolt S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a|
|Rock n Road T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b|
|Rope Burn in Hell S 5.12b/c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b|
|Schmeming S 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a|
|Two Wheel Drive S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b|
|Up To Bat T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a|
|Type:||Trad, 70 ft|
|Page Views:||99 total, 1/month|
|Shared By:||George Perkins on Mar 7, 2009|
|Admins:||Shirtless Mike, Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski|
Description"Rock n Road" is the only climb mentioned for Diablo Canyon in Tim Toula's Rock N' Road guide (which was published before the sport climbing frenzy here). But its description of the area was pretty vague: "an excellent 5.11 corner can be found [at Diablo Canyon]". While many corners at Diablo fit this description, most people and guidebooks figure this clean and sustained line here on Early Wall is the one they're talking about.
Lieback a steep flake in a right-facing corner; mantle/stem over to the right at the top of it. This is the crux, it's pretty physical but well-protected. After a good rest stance here, you enter a short section of tricky finger crack. Continue with excellent stemming as you climb a nice finger crack up to the blocky roof. Turn this on on the left and finish up with more finger crack. 2-bolt anchor.
- Protection is great the whole way.
- 'Jemez Rock' and Rick B.'s guide call this route 5.11. We felt it was more like 5.10+? Your experience may vary.
- FA: Unknown. Both the ABQ group (Tom Wezwick, Mark Thomas, Chris Kessler, Alex Sfakianos and Karl Kiser) and the Los Alamos group (Beguin, Kisiel, and Newell) climbed in this area of Diablo in the early/mid 90s. This climb would've been within the ability of all these folks, but if it is truly the crack referred to in Rock-n-Road, it was climbed earlier than that.
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