PRINT: Rock Climb Ruffles Have Ridges, Santa Fe Area

Ruffles Have Ridges

5.10a/b, Trad, 80 ft (24 m),

Avg: 2.3 from 6 votes
FA: unknown
New Mexico > Santa Fe Area > Diablo Canyon > Grotto > Grotto Right (W Side)

Access Issue: Access Issue for Areas in BLM Taos Field Office Lands Details

Per the Bureau of Land Management (BLM) Taos Field Office's ( blm.gov/office/taos-field-o…) 2012 Taos Resource Management Plan (RMP) ( bit.ly/2Kab3HO), "Installation of new rock climbing routes or hardware will require pre-approval by the BLM." The RMP is the document that guides all the BLM management in a given field office. Climbers are asked to respect this guidance and not install new bolts or fixed hardware on Taos Field Office BLM land without pre-approval from the BLM. NM CRAG ( nmcrag.org/) is currently working with the BLM Taos Field Office to establish specific guidance for new route development in the district and they hope to have a formal process in the near future.

Diablo areas within the BLM Taos Field Office management area are: The Shack, Winter Wall, Solar Cave, Lake Street and Styx.

Description

Ruffles Have Ridges is another fun climb and one of the easier ones in the Grotto area.

Start as for Crack Wars, climbing flakes at the beginning, then you'll reach a slabby section as you move left. As the crack steepens, it is big finger size, lieback/stem one or two moves, and you'll see a line of bolts up and right. Stem out right clip the first bolt, and follow a seam (face climbing really), to a mantle onto a ledge. Another 8' section of face climbing with a final mantle, and you're at the chains.

The harder sections of this climb are bolt protected, so it's still a good choice for a 5.10- sport leader who's not sure about 5.10- trad.

Location

Ruffles Have Ridges starts as for Crack Wars, then busts out right on a bolt-protected thin face.

Protection

Trad gear (cams from #0.5 to #1 Camalot, and/or nuts), followed by 3 bolts, to a 2-bolt anchor, which is shared with the climb erroneously called "Box of Chocolates".