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Routes in The Particularly Nice One

10, The V9 7C
6, The V6 7A
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Cody Roth or possibly John Duran earlier
Page Views: 1,262 total, 12/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Mar 6, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


7 Opinions

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Description

A classic foothills problem with mostly big moves on OK holds. Even the small moves feel big.

Start with a big shoulder move to the right to gain a good edge. Next reach up into a pretty good but small undercling above your head with your left. Walk your feet up and engage your bicep for all you are worth. Match the undercling for a second to adjust your feet then make a long move up to a sloper at the bottom of a vertical seam. Match and don't let your feet cut. Slap up to a good gaston hold in the crack just above. Top out with realative ease past the flake then back left.

Location

Starts from a low crack on the left side of the face. The crack runs up and left and the boulder is undercut so your feet start out pretty far to the right.

Protection

Pad and spotter.

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LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Just because they get dragedup the rock behind you does not mean that they are getting used. Aah the benifit of being able to campus double digit problems. Typically, locals are sandbaggers as they have things ruthlessly wired. Though the starting hold on Redrum has crumbled over the years and I don't know exactly when this occured. Mar 26, 2009
suprasoup
Rio Rancho, NM
  V9
suprasoup   Rio Rancho, NM
  V9
You know me too well:) You'll be surprised to know that I did use my feet on this climb. The reach to the sloper dish thing is pretty far for my height. Not sure where your right foot was but mine was on the right hand sidepull/pinch. The crux was moving off the sloper. The sharp tooth was pretty key cause I probably would have come off when I reached for the sloper, dunno I'll try it again in the next day or so.
You are probably right about the rating if you're comparing it to the red rum sit start. When I climbed it in '04 and again in '05 I'd always been told by the locals that it was V9.
P.S. I've never needed an excuse for my shoddy footwork:) Mar 26, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Sup, I thought the crux was matching the sloper and moving. As far as the rating goes it was as hard as Redrum Sit in the Happies/Bishop which I beleive is considered by most to be 10, also the fact that Chris E. took several at least a few days all be it spread over several years to do it tells me it is pretty hard. Spreading your fingers and blowing it off as part of the "outdoor experience" is just an excuse for not using your feet Sup. Mar 25, 2009
suprasoup
Rio Rancho, NM
  V9
suprasoup   Rio Rancho, NM
  V9
I figured it was part of the whole "Outdoor Experience", you forget that this poser has only seen plastic holds for the last year or so. I swear that large tooth digging a hole in my left index finger was the only thing that kept me from blowing when I fired for that crappy sloper dish thing.
What's your take on the rating Lee? It didn't feel like a 10 to me, granted I haven't been outside in a long while. Mar 22, 2009
LeeAB Brinckerhoff
ABQ, NM
 
LeeAB Brinckerhoff   ABQ, NM  
 
Hey Sup, gotta grab the undercling with the teeth between your fingers not with them on your fingers, much more comfortable that way. Mar 21, 2009