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Routes in The Complex

Egghead V1 5
High Tide V2 5+
It's Oral Over V6- 7A
Sand Stone Sur fin V2 5+
Scientists, The V3-4 6A+
Wanderer, The V1 5
Type: Boulder, 15 ft
FA: Travis Melin
Page Views: 2,348 total, 22/month
Shared By: TravisMelin on Mar 5, 2009
Admins: Doug Hemken, James Schroeder, Chris treggE

You & This Route


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Description

Thin! Stand start and move up a series of small/sharpish pinches. Bump to a good pinch just off the right arete, and move left onto more thin bad holds. Either make a final deadpoint to a minipocket out left, or dyno for the huge jug at the top. Super fun route!

Location

The right side of the face

Protection

Pad, definitely a spotter. The tree has a broken limb that will certainly poke you in the back if you fall mid route. This danger is easily prevented with a good spot.
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V6
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V6
Sweet, when I get done with work I will call you to see where you're at. May 13, 2010
Dobbe
 
Dobbe  
 
Hey Chris we are going out on Sunday if you can get away. May 13, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V6
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V6
Nice to see this line and area getting a little attention. Oral Over is great. I looked at the center line last year, hard is right. I'd be up for heading out there to clean it off and give it some love. May 12, 2010
Langlois
NYC
Langlois   NYC
Not yet, It was a bit dirty last weekend. Looks like there's something there though. Hard and thin May 12, 2010
TravisMelin
Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
TravisMelin   Portland, OR, Roanoke, VA L
 
Anybody try to do the centerline? May 12, 2010
Langlois
NYC
Langlois   NYC
Must reiterate what Remo said. I think this thing is a classic! Ellen and I will send next time out. May 12, 2010
Remo
Madison, WI
  V6
Remo   Madison, WI
  V6
I forgot how amazing this line really is. The holds are painful, but the movement is great. Save your skin and it's well worth the hike out. May 9, 2010
Chris treggE
Madison, WI
  V6
Chris treggE   Madison, WI  
  V6
Agree with Remo, scary at the top unless you have a good spotter (thanks Jay). Fun line, nice work Travis, and yes, for once, good directions! This line was very similar in difficulty to Alpine Bouldering Club, so harder than V5? Apr 4, 2009
Remo
Madison, WI
  V6
Remo   Madison, WI
  V6
I climbed all the moves to the top, but couldn't commit the bump to the finish because of no spotter, and the tree is nobody's friend. A great boulder problem- good work Trav! IMO I would call this a 4 star V6,(tad harder than other V5s in the park) the holds are super small(and sharp) and far apart= perfect!
The face just left of Oral Over looks futuristic, but doable. Who will be the strong one to go and get after it. Mar 26, 2009
Dobbe
 
Dobbe  
 
Nice work Travis. Very good directions. Mar 7, 2009