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Routes in The Gunks

Type: Boulder, 25 ft
FA: Dean?
Page Views: 1,074 total, 10/month
Shared By: LeeAB Brinckerhoff on Mar 5, 2009
Admins: Hank Caylor, Matt Richardson, LeeAB Brinckerhoff

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Guided access only. Details
East Spur is accessed by Guided Tour Only Details
Some areas require a guide. Details

Description

Very striking line up the steep corner with a finger crack to a moderately difficult but quite high top out onto a slab. The only real line on the wall.

Get your right hand as high in the corner as you can and stand up. Arrange your feet into some sort of a wide stem and pull up as high as you can. There is a sloping edge a bit below where the crack actually opens up that you can pause on to readjust your feet or just bump off of. Claw for where the crack opens. Then get your feet up and match. Layback up the corner eventually with good feet out right till you get to the lip. Reach up to the lip and grab some good slopers and pull over to the right or more straight up.

Graded V4 in the guide book. It might be V4 if you are well over 6 feet tall or you somehow don't take into account the first moves.

Location

From New Religion, walk between New Religion and the Gunks boulder then around to the back of the next big boulder on your left. You will be greeted with a 30 degree overhung wall with a slanted landing. Walk up the slope till you see the obvious right facing corner that starts at about head height and has a finger crack in it.

Protection

Pads, lots and spotters, the bigger the better.

Photos

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