Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Zipper Buttress

Bitch Slap S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b
California Dreamin' S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Crouching Tony, Hidden Trundle S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Git'er Done S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Hair of the Dog S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Hootenanny S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
PBR S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Planet Janet S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Poster Child S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Ramp Festival S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Tube, The S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Zipper S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Type: Sport, 60 ft
FA: Jeff Achey, 2005
Page Views: 866 total, 8/month
Shared By: Michael Schneiter on Mar 5, 2009
Admins: Alvaro Arnal, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac

You & This Route


12 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-
Railroad Details

Description

A fun and enjoyable climb on good rock. Climb through the "hole" at the bottom and onto the face above. Climb the clean cut dihedral and finish on the moderate face above.

Location

Hike about 20 yards left along the cliff from where the trail meet the crag. There's a spot at the base of the cliff where you make an exposed traverse on rock. Just after this, look for the obvious right-facing dihedral and a "hole" feature at the bottom. This is California Dreamin'.

Protection

6 bolts and 3 pins.

Addendum: this is now fully bolted with stainless hardware from the ASCA and the pins are gone.

Photos

Jordan Hirro
Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Jordan Hirro   Colorado Springs/Carbondale
 
Thanks for all of your work, guys! I did this one last summer and is definitely a fun one! Nov 5, 2013
Jason Kaplan
Glenwood ,Co
Jason Kaplan   Glenwood ,Co
Glad I wasn't the only one that thought that ^.... My friend tried to lead it and backed down before the pin, I went up with a set of hybrid Aliens and wished I had my RPs and sliding nuts. Managed to sneak in a hybrid about 3 feet below the bolt which helped a little, but it sure was a spicy lead either way! Surely an onsight that actually mattered. Thanks for the upgrade, Mike and the ASCA. Nov 13, 2011
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
This is now fully bolted with stainless hardware from the ASCA and the pins are gone. Climb away!

You were right Jeff, that was a pretty good runout without the pins! Jul 27, 2011
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Sorry I haven't gotten to this sooner. I've been really busy with other projects, work and stuff, like my wife having a baby today!!!

No worries about old school equipping, Jeff. I really appreciate all of the development you've done in the canyon, and my wife appreciates it now so I can easily and quickly climb close to home! :) Jul 25, 2011
J Achey  
Well, I climbed this route again over the weekend, after a long absence, and, yes, another pin has fallen out (I'd already replaced one with a bolt, higher in the dihedral, a few years ago). The route, as is, is pretty dangerous, with a big runout above another pin, which is dubious. Mike said he wanted to replace the pins - great, Mike, the sooner the better.

So ... sorry, local climbers, about the old-school equipping. It has taken me a while to get comfortable bolting cracks or gear placements, even at sport areas, but I think I'm finally modern enough to handle it.

And Slim, thanks for your kind words, as well as the deserved jabs. Jul 25, 2011
slim

  5.9
slim    
  5.9
Ironically enough, I actually kind of enjoyed it. Just figured I'd give Jeff a hard time. Probably found 400 lbs of old iron in his basement and didn't know what to do with it. :) Jul 14, 2011
Michael Schneiter
Glenwood Springs, CO
 
Michael Schneiter   Glenwood Springs, CO
 
If the pins are gone, then maybe we should go replace them with some bolts, that won't go missing. We can talk to Jeff beforehand. Sorry you had such a miserable experience, Slim. Jul 13, 2011
slim

  5.9
slim    
  5.9
We thought this route was absolutely awful. It starts with non-descript climbing, which is well protected by 3 bolts. The book said the dihedral above (clean cut????, ugghh) had pins (i.e. plural). The dihedral had 1 pin in a muddy crack, about a foot above the bolt, basically useless. From there, it was a good run on muddy, slimy, non-positive holds to get to the next bolt. Falling here would be pretty bad. Then, easy climbing to the anchor. You might be able to get small gear in the crack, but it is kind of one of those irregular limestone cracks. One bolt in this area would be a big improvement.

I figured the FA had to be Alvino Pon but was shocked and saddened to see it was Jeff Achey. Pounding pins into a crack on limestone sport route in 2005? Jeff, you're killing me. Don't be smudging your brilliant, golden career with these piss-ant, brown smudges! Jul 13, 2011
D-Storm  
This is my favorite of the three 5.9s at this cliff. The biggest drawback to the climb is that the belay area sucks and is in the middle of the trail. It's no big deal if no one else is trying to get around, which is usually the case, but is a total bummer when another after-work group with dogs comes along. Jun 1, 2010