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Routes in Dream Weaver Wall

Dream Weaver T,TR 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Great Expectations T,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c R
Locomotive Breath T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Psycho Path T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a PG13
Tiptoe T,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Type: Trad
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,406 total, 13/month
Shared By: percious on Mar 2, 2009
Admins: Morgan Patterson

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Description

Left of the right wing wall is a nice right leaning crack. The traditional start of this route is on the right via Herberium, then traverse left and start the crack. Check your rope drag, as it can be a beast as you continue up the crack. This climb can optionally be started with Tiptoe, but there is no gear until you get up to the crack, and Tiptoe is a 5.9 start.

Protection

Standard trad rack.

Photos

Peter Brandon
North Conway, New Hampshire
 
Peter Brandon   North Conway, New Hampshire
 
This is such a great climb. The somewhat wandering start makes it interesting, and the epic exposure (by CT standards) at the end with good holds and gear make this one of the best 5.7 climbs in CT for sure. Watch for loose stuff up top, don't just grab blindly.

I lead it on a single rope, drag was manageable after extending everything. Jun 20, 2017
JIncillo  
 
I'd agree! This line has great exposure for a 5.7 in CT. Fun climb. I'll definitely be doing this one again! Apr 4, 2015
CTdave
Victor, Id.
 
CTdave   Victor, Id.
 
good exposure, great pro, great holds, super fun climb. Id say an area must do. I didnt have an issue w/ rope drag and the loose blocks in the crack toward the top are pretty stable. I pulled on em Aug 15, 2013
Joel A
  5.7
Joel A  
  5.7
Watch the loose blocks up top. Jul 8, 2011