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Routes in South Astro Dome - Northeast Face

Bleed Between the Lines TR 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Breakfast of Champions T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Crimping Lessons S 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Mamunia S 5.13a 7c+ 29 IX+ 29 E6 6c
Middle Age Crazy T 5.11c/d 7a 24 VIII 25 E4 6a
Middle Age Crisis S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Middle Age Savage T 5.12a/b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6a
My Laundry T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Piggle Pugg T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Shooting Star T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Solid Gold T 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Such a Savage T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c R
Such a Waste TR 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Walking Pneumonia T 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a X
Type: Trad, 190 ft
FA: Herb Laeger, Mike Jaffe, and Dave Houser, February 1980
Page Views: 1,370 total, 13/month
Shared By: Dave M Snyder on Mar 2, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Start by clipping 2 bolts right of Solid Gold and then traversing up and right over easy terrain with optional cams for protection. Then begin stellar face climbing past 4 more bolts with engaging, heads up climbing between 5 and 6 that make the route memorable. Climb up to a 7th bolt then meander to the top with optional small cams in a crack on the left or by moving up & right over easy but unprotectable ground to the right.

Location

Starts apx. 25' down and right of Solid Gold. There are 2 bolts at the top (1 old and 1 newer) w/o hangars. 2 raps down by Breakfast of Champions.

Protection

7 bolts. Optional cams for the traversing runout between bolts 2 and 3. Optional medium sized cams for the top.

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Jon Clark
Philadelphia, PA
  5.11d PG13
Jon Clark   Philadelphia, PA
  5.11d PG13
Steep and thin cranking on nasty sharp edges through the crux with some sporty runs up top. Solid to hard 10 off the ground. I thought the crux was from the stance above the easy section at bolt 3. The rock quality isn't the best here...perhaps some broken holds?

Relatively easy climbing for the 35 or so feet between bolt 2 and 3. You can plug gear in the flake system, but the rock is pretty poor.

The crux is well protected, other sections are not. Great position on the face. Nov 28, 2011
Bob Gaines
  5.11c/d PG13
Bob Gaines  
  5.11c/d PG13
This is one of the best Josh face routes! Mar 3, 2009