[Hide Comment] What a great mini-adventure this route is. The first pitch of this thing offers sustained technical face climbing (+/- 115'). The second pitch has a really cool crux sequence on a cool series of features on a nice varnished section of wall (+/- 115'). The third pitch is a short jug haul to the top (40'). In its current form I can only give it two stars, but once this thing gets some more traffic it is going to be an objective worthy of three stars out of four.

On the first pitch I fell when a foothold broke. The route is well bolted so you won't get hurt, but it still felt a bit exciting due to its fragile nature. Climb lightly on lead. If 11- is a fairly comfortable grade for you, I suggest this route.

Rack beta: I'm not 100% sure but I think we took 9 sport draws and 5 slings. We definitely took blue tcu through #1 camalot (5 units total), but you probably only need through 0.75 camalot (four units) and a set of nuts. All belays are bolted.

The pitches seemed to be about 35 meters, so you might be able to rappel with a 70meter. We did the walk off as it was getting dark and we didn't want to find out the hard way that a 70 didn't work. The walk off on the climbers right was easy to follow even in the waning light. Overall this route is a great addition by the three hombres. Mar 4, 2010

[Hide Comment] Anyone else out there ever climbed this? Apr 17, 2015

[Hide Comment] I climbed it in the last year or two and found Darren's comment helpful.
Worth climbing once but certainly a bit fragile in places. Probably won't have to wait in line :) Apr 21, 2015

[Hide Comment] Route raps easily with a 70m. Very safely bolted, especially where the rock gets dicey. Oct 31, 2017

[Hide Comment] Adventurous and fun route. Pitch 1 felt 10+/ Pitch 2 felt 11b. Bring your 'delicate climbing' hat. Apr 9, 2018

[Hide Comment] An OK route - worth doing once. It’s all 5.10 or easier except for two or three moves at the beginning of P2. Not sure if a hold has broken or something but those moves are harder than any single move on several 11c’s I’ve climbed (Running Man, Levitation 29, Jungle Wall). Powerful crimping with bad and/or really high feet. I’d probably call that pitch 11b/c. Apr 21, 2018

[Hide Comment] I climbed this route on 3/30/2019- The first pitch was around 10+/11-, but has a little bit of rotten rock. You can get past this by climbing carefully and testing holds, I didn't have anything break on me, but it came a little close, especially with the small foot holds. There was one section that involved using a hollow flake as a hand hold, if anything just for balance, be very careful with this; it's only a matter of time before it goes!! Pitch one was very closely bolted (each bolt was about 6-8 feet apart and placing any gear could do more harm to the rock than good to you in the event of a fall so I would recommend only clipping the bolts.

The second pitch was definitely the crux. You start off a really huge ledge with tones of big blocks on it, just follow the bolts up some varnished rock. This was by far the crux of the route and we were thinking that some holds or flakes had gotten ripped off. The crux was pulling on some small (and somewhat painful) crimps while stepping your foot high to reach for a jug, then you mantel off of that to some easier climbing. It was pretty stout for 11-, and me and my partner both agree that it was more around 11c or so, if anything else breaks off it could easily become 11d. After that keep following the bolts up to a easy dihedral- this is the only place where you might consider bringing gear- I placed one piece (BD .75) this was about three feet above the last bolt and four feet below the next, so in other words: completely unnecessary. From there I pulled over the roof with plenty of good holds probably about 10c then climbed up to the chains.

Pitch three was a bolt ladder, about 4 feet apart to the top the pitch was maybe 30 feet. Super cruiser and the best rock on the route.

We rappelled down the route instead of doing the walk off, and didn't get a rope stuck for longer than 30 seconds, it would actually make a good rappel route for other routes that top out on the wall. Be careful about your rope getting stuck among the blocks on top of pitch one! You can rappel the entire route safely with a 70m.

No gear was needed for the entire climb, I only used one cam and it wasn't really necessary because it was on easy climbing and in-between two solid bolts. In the future if I climb this route again I'll take 14 quickdraw and 1 70m rope.

All bolts on this route where solid, didn't encounter any spinners just a few loose hangers than will probably hold any fall.

remember your helmet, anyone who's not carful could easily kick off a lot of rock and there is that loose flake that will leave a mark!

Overall a good route, it just needs a few hundred more people or so to climb it so all the crap can get knocked off, and don't let the first pitch scare you off the rock quality gets better the higher you go up the route. Mar 31, 2019

[Hide Comment] I think it's still worth it to bring the couple cams as described by Darren. Something like a .5 BD just before pulling the roof on pitch 2 makes it super casual and enjoyable. Using only the bolts it makes somewhat bold. May 17, 2019

[Hide Comment] This route was at my limit (I've cheated thru the p2 crux that indeed felt way harder than Levitation 29 or Jungle Wall) but I found no gear was needed. I brought a bunch and earnestly tried to fiddle something in before the roof, but ended up taking it out; the roof is maybe 5.9 with stem, and the bolts are right there. Feb 17, 2021

[Hide Comment] Agree with Darren and Ryan's descriptions of the route overall, and with Tracy's advice of delicate climbing.

Pitch 1 - first half holds are to the left but bolts are awkwardly far right. Rock is an odd mixture of crumbly/sketchy holds and smooth blank varnish. Near the top, again the bolts go right, but the nice varnish holds are to the left.
Pitch 2 - Really cool features in beautiful varnish at the start. The bolt above the crux section is a little wobbly with a loose hanger. The corner above and roof pull are both fun.
Pitch 3 - we didn't climb as it was getting too dark, but it looks like more beautiful perfect varnish to the top.
Rap with 70m.
Overall the rock crumbliness and awkward bolting (it's safe just awkward in some spots) make an otherwise three star route only worthy of one or two, IMHO. Nov 12, 2021

[Hide Comment] Not a very good route. Bad rock, poorly bolted (way too far out right). If you’ve climbed every other 5.11 in red rock and this is the last one you have left, go to Mt. Charleston. Oct 7, 2022