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Routes in Black Wall (aka Happy Acres)

All that, Jazz T,S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Cram It T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Geriatric Therapy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Greek Tragedy T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13
Happy Acres T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Mom & Apple Pie S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Mothers of Invention S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Spontaneous Enjoyment T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Tres Hombres T,S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII+ 22 E3 5c
Unknown 5.8+ T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
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Type: Trad, Sport, 300 ft, 3 pitches, Grade II
FA: 2/27/09 D. Rider, B. Conz, L. Saca
Page Views: 1,154 total · 10/month
Shared By: calicodan on Mar 2, 2009 with updates from Rprops
Admins: Larry DeAngelo, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: RAIN AND WET ROCK: The sandstone in Red Rocks is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Details

Description

A 3 pitch route on the left side of the Black Wall in Calico Basin. Morning sun, afternoon shade. Sport with some optional gear placements. No crowds. Rock is good with some portions still a little friable.

Pitch 1 - Follow the bolts (a couple of optional gear placements in between) to the ledge with the tree - 5.10+/.11-.

Pitch 2 - Head up the Black Wall (crux down low) to a prominent right facing corner that leads to a small roof - the corner protects with gear - over the roof to the belay - 5.11-.

Pitch 3 - Finish the wall via bolts to the final ledge 5.9+.

Bolted anchors. Tops out on the Calico Hills. Walk or rap off.

It is set up to rap with a 70 meter rope. It is cleaning up nicely and all bolts and anchors seem to be in good shape. Enjoy.

Getting There

Hike up Canyon De Heinous to the Black Wall. The route starts on the left side at the plumb line from the small pine tree on the intermediate ledge (the top of pitch 1)

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Darren in Vegas
Las Vegas, NV
 
Darren in Vegas   Las Vegas, NV
 
What a great mini-adventure this route is. The first pitch of this thing offers sustained technical face climbing (+/- 115'). The second pitch has a really cool crux sequence on a cool series of features on a nice varnished section of wall (+/- 115'). The third pitch is a short jug haul to the top (40'). In its current form I can only give it two stars, but once this thing gets some more traffic it is going to be an objective worthy of three stars out of four.

On the first pitch I fell when a foothold broke. The route is well bolted so you won't get hurt, but it still felt a bit exciting due to its fragile nature. Climb lightly on lead. If 11- is a fairly comfortable grade for you, I suggest this route.

Rack beta: I'm not 100% sure but I think we took 9 sport draws and 5 slings. We definitely took blue tcu through #1 camalot (5 units total), but you probably only need through 0.75 camalot (four units) and a set of nuts. All belays are bolted.

The pitches seemed to be about 35 meters, so you might be able to rappel with a 70meter. We did the walk off as it was getting dark and we didn't want to find out the hard way that a 70 didn't work. The walk off on the climbers right was easy to follow even in the waning light. Overall this route is a great addition by the three hombres. Mar 4, 2010
Anyone else out there ever climbed this? Apr 17, 2015
I climbed it in the last year or two and found Darren's comment helpful.
Worth climbing once but certainly a bit fragile in places. Probably won't have to wait in line :) Apr 21, 2015
Rprops
North Las Vegas
  5.11b/c
Rprops   North Las Vegas
  5.11b/c
Route raps easily with a 70m. Very safely bolted, especially where the rock gets dicey. Oct 31, 2017
Rprops
North Las Vegas
  5.11b/c
Rprops   North Las Vegas
  5.11b/c
This route easily goes on all bolts, and is cleaning up nicely. Hopefully it will join the ranks of the few popular multipitch sport climbs in the park. Nov 22, 2017
Tracy Martin
Las Vegas, NV
Tracy Martin   Las Vegas, NV
Adventurous and fun route. Pitch 1 felt 10+/ Pitch 2 felt 11b. Bring your 'delicate climbing' hat. Apr 9, 2018
Kevin Dahlstrom
Fort Worth, TX
 
Kevin Dahlstrom   Fort Worth, TX
 
An OK route - worth doing once. It’s all 5.10 or easier except for two or three moves at the beginning of P2. Not sure if a hold has broken or something but those moves are harder than any single move on several 11c’s I’ve climbed (Running Man, Levitation 29, Jungle Wall). Powerful crimping with bad and/or really high feet. I’d probably call that pitch 11b/c. Apr 21, 2018

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