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Xanax
V6,
Boulder, 18 ft (5 m),
Avg: 3 from 4
votes
FA: Hank Caylor
Texas
> Austin Area
> Bull Creek Park
> Parking Lot Bou…
> Frontside Boulders
Description
Starting on smooth crimps, yard up on a series of shallow but positive pockets. A very small left hand pocket and a meager crimp lead to a toss for the top edge finish. I like a small tick mark, pre-placed, on the final edge as it's sorta invisible.
Location
On the left boulder of the Front Side Boulders. Starts a few feet left of Tiny Dancer.
Protection
Pea gravel, pad, spotter.
[Hide Photo] Left half of Walter Weed boulder.
[Hide Photo] Right half of Walter Weed boulder with topo overlay and some marked handholds.
Austin, TX
Austin, TX
The beta sans old start hold does not increase the difficulty of the route. Another climber and I thought the that this new(?) sequence was actually easier.
Regardless, the climb needs no alterations. Dec 2, 2018
Livin' in the Junk!
Austin, TX
I don't have a ton of time on outdoor boulders, but just comparing Xanax and the adjacent problem Tiny Dancer(V7) I would personally say Xanax is equal to or even harder than Tiny Dancer and this point in time. I would be interested anyone else's opinions on the grade if they have climbed it in the current state. Dec 18, 2023
Agreed, It feels similar in difficulty to Tiny Dancer. The crux is holding the meager two finger pocket on the left while shooting the right hand up to a razor crimp slightly below the lip. Hope to see more people pulling down on this route.
instagram.com/reel/C1IHf1hx… Dec 21, 2023