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Xanax

V6, Boulder, 18 ft (5 m),  Avg: 3 from 4 votes
FA: Hank Caylor
Texas > Austin Area > Bull Creek Park > Parking Lot Bou… > Frontside Boulders

Description

Starting on smooth crimps, yard up on a series of shallow but positive pockets. A very small left hand pocket and a meager crimp lead to a toss for the top edge finish. I like a small tick mark, pre-placed, on the final edge as it's sorta invisible.

Location

On the left boulder of the Front Side Boulders. Starts a few feet left of Tiny Dancer.

Protection

Pea gravel, pad, spotter.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Left half of Walter Weed boulder.
[Hide Photo] Left half of Walter Weed boulder.
Right half of Walter Weed boulder with topo overlay and some marked handholds.
[Hide Photo] Right half of Walter Weed boulder with topo overlay and some marked handholds.
High on Xanax
[Hide Photo] High on Xanax

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Brian Lee Victory
Austin, TX
[Hide Comment] This problem comes down to an accurate, huge move to a crimp slightly below the lip. Jul 11, 2014
David Arredondo
Austin, TX
[Hide Comment] Please do not try to reglue the old starting hold. The glued on hold has come off somewhere between the last time I tried the problem (October?) and today.
The beta sans old start hold does not increase the difficulty of the route. Another climber and I thought the that this new(?) sequence was actually easier.
Regardless, the climb needs no alterations. Dec 2, 2018
Hank Caylor
Livin' in the Junk!
V6-
[Hide Comment] Thanks for that info David, super glad to see those boulders hanging in there! Dec 3, 2018
Brock Lubecker
Austin, TX
[Hide Comment] In the latest guide book this is listed as V-impossible. It states "A crucial crimp in the big bare spot broke", which I think is what is being used with the right hand in the photo "High on Xanax" that is linked to this page already. We found that in the current state it is useless. Anyways, just wanted to confirm that it is not V-impossible as my buddy Judah just sent it a few days ago!

I don't have a ton of time on outdoor boulders, but just comparing Xanax and the adjacent problem Tiny Dancer(V7) I would personally say Xanax is equal to or even harder than Tiny Dancer and this point in time. I would be interested anyone else's opinions on the grade if they have climbed it in the current state. Dec 18, 2023
Jinsta RH
  V6-7
[Hide Comment] It’s still a classic. I put a video of my first successful send below (after 5 months of projecting). I had never sent a V6 before touching Xanax, and I was way too invested to give up by the time I learned about the broken hold.

Agreed, It feels similar in difficulty to Tiny Dancer. The crux is holding the meager two finger pocket on the left while shooting the right hand up to a razor crimp slightly below the lip. Hope to see more people pulling down on this route.

instagram.com/reel/C1IHf1hx… Dec 21, 2023