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Routes in The Penguins

Bolt Fund Depleted TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Goodbye Blue Sky S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Little Lab Rat S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Penguello S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stem Cell Research S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tuxedo Junction T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 9+ S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Who Says I'm Not? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: B. Bindner and E. Holland, January 2009
Page Views: 579 total · 5/month
Shared By: Dave Daly on Mar 1, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb up the south side of the West Penguin past 9 bolts to mussy hooks at the top of the formation.

Protection

bolted route to mussy hooks.

Photos

Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10a/b
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10a/b
Good long route on mostly so so rock. Two or three actual cruxes that should keep your interest. Climbs a lot like a Joshua Tree route complete with choss, slopers, and goofy presses. Harder than most of the 10a/b stuff around these parts. Apr 15, 2017
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
 
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
 
Agreed with your comment regarding the Pg13 rating. Went back and changed it since I haven't a clue why I added it. Fat finger editing? ;) Jan 28, 2013
BAd
  5.10a
BAd  
  5.10a
I don't quite get the "PG" rating. I'm basically a chicken and found it reasonable. HOWEVER, a short person will find the crux pretty dang hard. My wife--5'3"--ended up pulling a draw at the crux because she just couldn't reach the holds. So height does matter on this one. Overall, great fun!

PS: On most of the routes in the Hills, I stick-clip the first bolt. I don't see any point in risking a ground-out on these sport climbs.

BAd Apr 24, 2012

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