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Routes in The Penguins

Bolt Fund Depleted TR 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Goodbye Blue Sky S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
My Little Lab Rat S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Penguello S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Stem Cell Research S 5.10a/b 6a+ 19 VI+ 19 E2 5b
Tuxedo Junction T,S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Unknown 9+ S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Who Says I'm Not? S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
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Type: Sport, 95 ft
FA: B. Bindner and E. Holland, January 2009
Page Views: 603 total · 5/month
Shared By: Dave Daly on Mar 1, 2009
Admins: Aron Quiter, Euan Cameron, AWinters, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description

Climb up the south side of the West Penguin past 9 bolts to mussy hooks at the top of the formation.

Protection

bolted route to mussy hooks.

Photos

BAd
  5.10a
BAd  
  5.10a
I don't quite get the "PG" rating. I'm basically a chicken and found it reasonable. HOWEVER, a short person will find the crux pretty dang hard. My wife--5'3"--ended up pulling a draw at the crux because she just couldn't reach the holds. So height does matter on this one. Overall, great fun!

PS: On most of the routes in the Hills, I stick-clip the first bolt. I don't see any point in risking a ground-out on these sport climbs.

BAd Apr 24, 2012
Dave Daly
Kernville, CA
 
Dave Daly   Kernville, CA
 
Agreed with your comment regarding the Pg13 rating. Went back and changed it since I haven't a clue why I added it. Fat finger editing? ;) Jan 28, 2013
Russ Walling
www.FishProducts.com
  5.10a/b
Russ Walling   www.FishProducts.com
  5.10a/b
Good long route on mostly so so rock. Two or three actual cruxes that should keep your interest. Climbs a lot like a Joshua Tree route complete with choss, slopers, and goofy presses. Harder than most of the 10a/b stuff around these parts. Apr 15, 2017

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