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Routes in Main Wall

Afterglow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ancient Chinese Secret S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dope Ass Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Easter Island S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fortune Cookie S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
Local Wisdom S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
On Deck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shoe Fly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slut Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Step Up To The Plate S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tastes Like Chicken S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tongue Thai'd S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Welcome To CA Limestone S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Wind Tunnel S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Sport, 50 ft
FA: Aaron Rough
Page Views: 526 total · 4/month
Shared By: Rough on Mar 1, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route

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Up a slick mostly brown ramp on square cut edges to a headwall that goes from vertical to slightly past vertical before the anchors. A committing move guards the anchors. This is a fantastic climb.


5 bolts, bolted anchor


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This would have been a nice route (maybe 3 stars) if the first ascentionist had added a bolt to protect that "committing" move getting to the anchors (which as of 4/10 lacks descent hardware save for 1 carabiner). If one blows the crux or even breaks a hold at top, one will royally screw oneself on the ledge below- ah, ego. Apr 27, 2010
I have had two different anchor setups jacked from this route: 2 quick links then I tried two fixed biners baler wired to the hangers to make sure it would at least discourage people from snagging them. Don't ask me why someone has a hard on for this particular anchor setup. As for the fall, I have seen someone fall at the last move before the anchor and they didn't hit the ledge, though I agree that the fear of doing so makes the move a bit spicy. Enough to justify a bomb? Hardly, but eh you can't please everyone! Apr 27, 2010
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
5 bolts - HANGERS ONLY! Yes, it's true that I read the reports of missing rap anchor before heading to the crag but somehow forgotten which route that was. As a result and when I arrived to clean the anchor I was confronted with a few options.

A) Scramble off top and walking down unknown path
B) Scramble up top, bring cord in search for another anchor that may work although none really visible (i.e. Local Wisdom?)
C) Abandon bail sling or biner for escape
D) Wrap directly through hangers
E) Down climb two bolts, then across ledge to anchor for "On Deck"

I elected for option E which was easy enough to pull off but required my partner to climb the 1st half of the route again to clean gear and join me at said anchor. Stupid me, not to bring some shitty biner to leave behind. Little penalty for us other than hassle factor, budding leader experience may vary.

In regards to safety.... that's just silly. These routes although sometimes slightly forced are well though out and bolts placed nicely. No bomb. Apr 1, 2013
I didn't get around to this route, but it looks like the rap/lower anchors are back! Can't wait to try this one. Looks classic.

BAd Dec 4, 2013

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