Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Wall

Afterglow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ancient Chinese Secret S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dope Ass Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Easter Island S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fortune Cookie S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Local Wisdom S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
On Deck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shoe Fly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slut Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Step Up To The Plate S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tastes Like Chicken S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tongue Thai'd S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Welcome To CA Limestone S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Wind Tunnel S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 100 ft, 2 pitches
FA: Aaron Rough
Page Views: 688 total, 6/month
Shared By: Rough on Mar 1, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


6 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

This is the upper pitch to either Step Up or On Deck. From their anchors, go up and around some fairly loose blocks to the base of a defined arete. Head up this arete on fun moves on pockets and feldspar bands. Great exposure!

Protection

5 bolts, chain anchors

Photos

- No Photos -
BAd
  5.10a
BAd  
  5.10a
I want to second Brucy's comment about the first bolt on the arete above the first "belay." If you go direct and peel before clipping the next bolt, major impact awaits. I chickened out and climbed somewhat up the easier corner to the right and made a big reach left for the clip--phew!

BAd Dec 4, 2013
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.9
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.9
5 bolts, chains or 9 bolts and long runners if you want to extend from either On Deck or Step up. A little loose on the shelf but that's true at almost any area. Bring runners to avoid drag if doing it in a single push. Also be mindful a 70 meter rope just barely (like knot in end) reaches when lowering from the top anchor (with gear in place).

Nice route, one of the must-do's for the area IMO. Apr 1, 2013
brucy
 
brucy  
 
Take care on the bolt off the no hands ledge with regard to falling on to the ledge from above. Apr 27, 2010