Mountain Project Logo

Routes in Main Wall

Afterglow S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Ancient Chinese Secret S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Dope Ass Fly S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Easter Island S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Fortune Cookie S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Local Wisdom S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
On Deck S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Shoe Fly S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Slut Buckets S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Step Up To The Plate S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a
Tastes Like Chicken S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Tongue Thai'd S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
Welcome To CA Limestone S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c
Wind Tunnel S 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b
Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Aaron Rough
Page Views: 348 total, 3/month
Shared By: Rough on Mar 1, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


4 Opinions

Your To-Do List:

Add To-Do

Your Star Rating:


     Clear Rating

Your Difficulty Rating:


-none- Change

Your Ticks:

Add New Tick
    -none-

Description

Long route that takes the left hand arete of the smooth portion of the Main Wall. The crux is crossing over the small roof at the top onto the headwall with the shared anchors with Ancient Chinese Secret.

Protection

8 bolts, chain anchors

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
8 bolts chain anchor shares with neighboring route to right.

Not my favorite, but had little to do with the anchor set-up. Appreciate the permission from Rough for anyone to fix-up as needed. Agreed, topo depicts shared system and with traffic low...don't personally think it's a problem. Apr 1, 2013
Rough
 
Rough  
 
In my defense, I do show it sharing anchors with Ancient Chinese Secret on the free topo :) I always meant to go back and add an anchor, but never did before moving out of SoCal. I am totally open to someone doing it or maybe next time I am down I'll bring a few bolts and add them. Dec 6, 2010
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Nathan Scherneck is right on target regarding the anchor, as we watched a leader climb over the top to discover no anchor, and risk a huge fall in order to down climb to establish an anchor at the top of "Ancient Chinese Secret." The two climbs should have independent anchors. Dec 6, 2010
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
  5.11-
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
  5.11-
Agree about the anchor. A climber in our group continued climbing straight up, not knowing to traverse right to the anchor and had to down climb. Dec 5, 2010
brucy
 
brucy  
 
We thought the idea of traversing to the anchors of the route to the right was bogus- this route should of had an anchor of it's own. The crux down below was not very interesting- merely several insecure moves. Not a very highly recommended route. Apr 27, 2010