Type: Sport, 80 ft
FA: Aaron Rough
Page Views: 383 total · 3/month
Shared By: Rough on Mar 1, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

You & This Route


4 Opinions

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Description

Long route that takes the left hand arete of the smooth portion of the Main Wall. The crux is crossing over the small roof at the top onto the headwall with the shared anchors with Ancient Chinese Secret.

Protection

8 bolts, chain anchors

Photos

brucy
 
brucy  
 
We thought the idea of traversing to the anchors of the route to the right was bogus- this route should of had an anchor of it's own. The crux down below was not very interesting- merely several insecure moves. Not a very highly recommended route. Apr 27, 2010
Nathan Scherneck
Portland, OR
  5.11-
Nathan Scherneck   Portland, OR
  5.11-
Agree about the anchor. A climber in our group continued climbing straight up, not knowing to traverse right to the anchor and had to down climb. Dec 5, 2010
Benjamin Chapman
Small Town, USA
Benjamin Chapman   Small Town, USA
Nathan Scherneck is right on target regarding the anchor, as we watched a leader climb over the top to discover no anchor, and risk a huge fall in order to down climb to establish an anchor at the top of "Ancient Chinese Secret." The two climbs should have independent anchors. Dec 6, 2010
Rough
  5.11b
Rough  
  5.11b
In my defense, I do show it sharing anchors with Ancient Chinese Secret on the free topo :) I always meant to go back and add an anchor, but never did before moving out of SoCal. I am totally open to someone doing it or maybe next time I am down I'll bring a few bolts and add them. Dec 6, 2010
susan peplow
Joshua Tree
 
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
 
8 bolts chain anchor shares with neighboring route to right.

Not my favorite, but had little to do with the anchor set-up. Appreciate the permission from Rough for anyone to fix-up as needed. Agreed, topo depicts shared system and with traffic low...don't personally think it's a problem. Apr 1, 2013