Type: Boulder
FA: unknown
Page Views: 1,105 total · 7/month
Shared By: Dave Wachter on Feb 28, 2009 · Updates
Admins: Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


6 Opinions

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Description

Start on crimps (generally chalked), with a reachy move once you're established off the ground. Climb up to slopers, and grovel up to the horizontal hand crack. Awkward moving up and left to the topout, as there's a boulder in the crack you have to avoid.
The V4 grade is just a guess.

This seems like Q4 from Mayer & Moret's online guide, "Hard painful slab problem about 15-20 feet left of the lay-back crack. Tiny crimpers (one-finger half-pad), and smears for feet... Just three hard moves from the set up, yet I think it goes at V3 or more; but someone accustomed to slabs appeared to walk up it and called it V1. It's definitely harder than the P.1-2-3 (Wounded Knee) problems."

Location

This problem is in a little hidden corridor just to the east of Driftwood and the Pizza crack. Get up onto the podium at the base of those problems, and look to your left as you face the rock. You have to scramble over a little boulder to get into the corridor, and the problem is immediately on your right (the south wall of the corridor).
This problem is featured in the following exciting short film on You Tube:
youtube.com/watch?v=oQZ0k2k…

Protection

Pad, spotters.

Photos