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Routes in The Negropolis

B for Beers S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Cougar.com S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Dance on Fire T 5.11b/c 6c+ 23 VIII- 24 E4 6a PG13
Dancing With The Scars T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a
Exstrophy T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Girls in the Mist S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b
Just Smrz It T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Love Bandit T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Metal Highway T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Rap Dancing T 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a PG13
Slap Prancing T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Square Dancing TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
Tap Dancing T 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c X
Tunnel of Love T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
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Type: Trad, 50 ft
FA: Tony Milici and John Mireles, 1988.
Page Views: 432 total · 4/month
Shared By: Bob Gaines on Feb 28, 2009
Admins: C Miller, M. Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes

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Description [Suggest Change]

Located on the far left side of the Negropolis formation. Start at a chimney, moving on to the face at a thin flake, then 3 bolts on a slab to the top.

Location [Suggest Change]

Best descent is probably to downclimb to the top of the Tap Dancing pillar, and rap from the bolts (with chains).

Protection [Suggest Change]

Thin to 3 inches.

Photos

susan peplow
Joshua Tree
  5.8
susan peplow   Joshua Tree
  5.8
Cool route, pulling on the flake low gives a moments pause but as you ascend it's super cool & thin... thin like those flakes you see on much harder routes. The flake can protect with a small stopper or 3/4" cam (a bit higher) before getting to the 1st bolt. Bolt line is and super aesthetic to watch people climb. Partner as recommended scrambled down the chalk-stones to the neighboring anchor to descend. Oct 27, 2013
Tony Milici
Los Angeles
  5.8
Tony Milici   Los Angeles
  5.8
I think I did the first ascent of this in 1988 with John Mireles. My first and last FA. Dec 30, 2017
Bob Gaines  
 
Hey Tony, did you name it Slap Prancing? I always thought that was a typo in the Vogel guidebook and should have been Slab Prancing?? Dec 30, 2017
Tony Milici
Los Angeles
  5.8
Tony Milici   Los Angeles
  5.8
I don't remember naming it. We didn't report these ascents to anyone, I think John did the FA of Rap Dancing that same day. Jan 1, 2018

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