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Routes in Cereal Wall

Angell Falls T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Civil Disobedience T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Conscientious Objector T C2-
Fair-Weather Friend S 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
Fishers Of Men T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Instant Surreal T,S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b R
Kenosis T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
Mettle Detector T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13
Redneck Cartel T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Slap, Mantel, and Flop T,S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
Snap, Crackle, and Pop T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13
Sugar Pop Rocks T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Trophy Wife T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b
Walking On Water T 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a
Water Into Whine T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
Wild Hickory Nuts T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
unknown T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a R
Unsorted Routes:
Type: Trad, 160 ft
FA: Thomas Kelley, John Tainio, 1989
Page Views: 3,832 total, 36/month
Shared By: Brian Abram on Feb 28, 2009
Admins: Ryan Williams, Aaron Parlier, Steve Lineberry

You & This Route


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Description

Sustained and classic climbing. Begin off the mossy ledge at the base of the Nut n' Homo crack. Angle up and right toward a bolt, placing a couple pieces of pro before you get to it. Follow the shallow crack system that climbs more like a face to the next bolt. Fire to the top of the next crack section (possibly a strenuous nut or tricam placement along the way) and place some thin pro at the top of it before heading for the last bolt and easier climbing. Build a belay for another pitch or continue up some somewhat dirty 5.9 pinches to finish at a notch to a double bolt anchor. Watch for rope drag if you choose this recommended option.

A double rope rappel gets you back to the double bolts you pass before the mossy ledge. Don't get your ropes stuck on the second rappel!

Location

There are 3 normal ways to get to the mossy ledge:

Option 1 is considered the best climbing: Climb Instant Surreal (5.10+ R). This presents the best climbing of the 3 options, though it is the scariest.

Option 2 is to climb the crack/corner feature that is the start of Snap, Crackle and Pop (5.8). This is the natural line that leads directly into the roof traverse 2nd pitch and is well protected.

Option 3 is to climb the normal start to Nut n' Homo (5.8 R). This option seems to be a bit contrived (especially to be so dangerous) as it is at times only 10 feet or so from the natural line of Snap, Crackle and Pop.

All options take you to the same arching traverse beneath the overhang. Follow the cracks left until you can step up through a notch and continue left to the ledge. Pass up some old tat that marks the start of Moosehead and Battle Creek Bulge. Also continue past the double bolt anchors and scramble to the top of the good ledge.

Protection

All sizes, from micro cams to a single number 3 might find a use somewhere on the route or the approach pitches. 3 well spaced bolts in no way make this route a sport climb. Double ropes may help rope drag if you combine the pitches.
Robert Hutchins
  5.11b
Robert Hutchins  
  5.11b
Probably my favorite route at RB. Mega classic! Dec 21, 2011
One of the best routes at the Bald. Every move is just a blast! Dec 11, 2011
TomCaldwell
Clemson, S.C.
 
TomCaldwell   Clemson, S.C.
 
Tri-cams of all sizes worked very well on this route for the belays and the occasional flared pod. A calf-shaking classic! Nov 21, 2011