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Routes in Black Wall

Bouldering Cave Left V1 5
Chocolate Glove T,S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a PG13
Rampage S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
Reverend Mr. Black, The S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
Type: Boulder, 30 ft
FA: Walt Wehner?
Page Views: 339 total, 3/month
Shared By: Daniel Trugman on Feb 25, 2009
Admins: Aaron Hobson, Jason Halladay, Anthony Stout, LeeAB Brinckerhoff, Marta Reece, Drew Chojnowski

You & This Route


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Description

Start sitting under the obvious black streak. Pull steep but easy moves up monster jugs. Stem left and work a nice undercling sequence. Things begin to get thinner as you begin to exit the cave, presenting the crux. Head around the corner and mantle on blocky terrain to finish above the cave on its left side.

More of a traverse than anything, but one of the best easier problems in the Los Alamos Area. Like many routes at the Dungeon - great moves on questionable rock.

Location

Obvious cave about ten feet right of "Rampage". The problem starts sitting in the back of the cave and works the left boundary of the cave.

Protection

none needed

Photos

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Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
 
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
 
It certainly is interesting that not more people boulder here. I like to sport climb better so if I have a rope I'll tie in and go, but often enough I head up to the main wall alone and screw around on the bases of the longer sport climbs. Mar 18, 2009
Wa3lt
 
Wa3lt  
 
I *think* I might have done the FA of this problem, along with a lot of random variations of different levels of contrivatude back in the late (97?) 90s. I say that only because I pulled off a decent amount of chossy stuff before managing to climb it.

It's quite possible that Luke or Jean or some other fool was there alone and bored (hey! This isn't going where you think it is, get your mind out of the gutter!) and decided to climb it before me. If they did, they didn't clean it out very well.

Then again, neither did I. It's interesting to me that the Dungeon has some of the best bouldering in the LA area (steep, juggy, flat landing), but is very seldom used for that purpose - if the main wall ended at 15 or 20', there would be hordes of people bouldering there every afternoon, but since it's 80' tall, I've pretty much never seen anyone just bouldering. Weird. Mar 18, 2009
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
 
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
 
Indeed I did J. That's why I sent during the dead of winter when I knew you guys wouldn't be out there... uh watching me. Feb 26, 2009
Jason Hundhausen
Bozeman, MT
Jason Hundhausen   Bozeman, MT
This cave is also known as "The Latrine." Did you notice the seductive fragrance? Feb 26, 2009
Daniel Trugman
Los Alamos, NM
 
Daniel Trugman   Los Alamos, NM
 
This is the easiest line out of the cave (if you start at the very back). There are some more aesthetic problems (but harder) problems that head straight out of the cave or work the steeper right side. Feb 25, 2009