Type: Trad, Alpine, 2000 ft, 25 pitches, Grade V
FA: Mike Layton and Eric Wolfe, 2005
Page Views: 1,803 total · 14/month
Shared By: Ken Trout on Feb 24, 2009
Admins: Scott Coldiron, Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick

You & This Route

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A Gneiss Monster

Conquistadors of the Useless photo by Mountain Project contributor MisterE
Summer of 2005, the wall was climbed and then rappelled. Two articles were published about the Devil's Club route; Alpinist #15, and the 2007 AAC Journal.
The Devil's Club (red)
Mike Layton on the first ascent. photo by MisterE 2005

Eric Wherly's report of the 2008 second route, with variation, on the east face.

Prospecting for more unclimbed routes in the North Cascades is a lot more fun using John Scurlock's Gallery .
Devil's Club Approach

According to both internet reports, no bolts were placed. The gear was good enough that the route was rappelled from the high-point and the second ascent team liked the holds.